Restoring a Damp House in Sicily, Part 3

March 1, 2010

The roof’s been fixed; the rain’s been staunched.

Old Terracotta Roof Tiles on a Sicilian House, copyright Jann Huizenga

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…xxxxx

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I turn my attention to the interior of the house.

Please find me some old stones, I implore. Vi prego. There must be stone under the many layers of plaster and wall tile. Let’s expose it!

“What do you need old stones for, anyway? asks the project manager, tossing his head impatiently. “If you want stone, we can put pietra finta, fake stone, on the walls.”

Fake stone? Could he be serious?

“It’ll be faster and cheaper than looking all over the house for old stone. It looks better, too.”

“But,” I wail, “I love old stuff! We don’t have old stuff in the Stati Uniti!!!! That’s why I’m in Sicily!”

I long to wrap history around me like a well-worn cape. Sicilians, having lived among ruins for millennia, want to shed the old cape for something flashier.

***

A week or so later, I get a call in Rome. “Non c’e pietra.” There’s no stone.

I’m stunned.  This is an old Sicilian house. There has to be stone. Or have I managed to purchase the one and only stone-free house in all of Italy?

***

There’s a new twist to the plot. My husband decides to travel from the U.S. to far-flung Ragusa Ibla to see for himself what’s going on. It’s the first time he and the house will meet—nearly a year after I’ve bought it—and I’m nervous. His interest in the project has not been keen. What’ll he think?

When he arrives at our mossy-smelling home late one afternoon, there’s rubble wherever you look. He wears a fixed frown and raises an eyebrow.

Then he hunts around for a tool. There’s nothing in the house but a vintage can opener. He climbs a ladder in the salone and starts scratching at the vaulted ceiling. He claws away with his rusty little can opener until fingers start to bleed.

“So who says there’s no pietra,” he yells from atop the ladder. “Look at this.”

Peeking through the plaster is a hint of beautiful stone.

Ceiling of a Sicilian house undergoing restoration, copyright Jann Huizenga

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He comes down from the ladder and steps onto the balcony with a wan smile. Plaster has settled into his hair. The sky is full of evening light; the bells toll as if they’re going mad. The small smile transforms into a dual-dimpled grin.

x

San Giorgio Cathedral at dusk, Ragusa Ibla, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

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Southeast Sicily’s Captain Mimo

February 25, 2010

I met him in the baroque town of Noto.

Sicilian man in Noto, copyright Jann Huizenga

His name was Domenico Sculli.

“Call me Mimo,” he said.

He spoke good English. “I was boat captain for 42 years. I know whole world. Japan, Australia, Siberia. I lived in South America. Only place I don’t know is China. I came back home for retire. But many friends already gone.”

“Are you happy to be back in Sicily?”

“Look!” he said, sweeping his hand through the air. “Noto is so beautiful!”

I nodded.

He pulled a photo from a worn leather wallet.

Sicilian man in Noto, copyright Jann Huizenga

“This is how I was forty years ago. You see I was very, very handsome.”

Sicilian man reading La Sicilia, copyright Jann HuizengaClick to leave a comment.

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xxx

Do You Dream . . . ?

February 22, 2010

… of a house in deepest Sicily?

… of clouds and earth and stone?

Stone Farmhouse in a field in Southeast Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Of lying under a fig tree with days wide as an ocean?

Dream away…Abandoned house in the countryside in southeast Sicily, copyright Jann HuizengaAbandoned house in a field in southeast Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

There are so many broken-down homes in Southeast Sicily waiting to be tamed. Waiting and waiting for you.

For Sale Sign on Old Sicilian House, copyright Jann Huizenga

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Restoring a Damp House in Sicily, Part 2

February 19, 2010

Scaffolding on a Sicilian House, Copyright Jann Huizenga


I scale the scaffolding to inspect the newly-patched roof tiles. Resentment tugs at me—a feeling that my husband should be the one crawling up these monkey bars, not accident-prone me. Why is he 7,000 miles away, on terra firma, while I’m alone in this strange land?  The truth is, the foolhardy idea to renovate a house in Sicily was all mine. But couldn’t he feign a little more interest?

I keep climbing. Anaïs Nin’s words run through my head: Life expands or contracts in proportion to your courage.

It’s cold up here. The house—at the summit of Ragusa Ibla— takes the full brunt of the cutting tramontana blowing south from snowy Mount Etna. The rocks at the edges of the roof are meant to keep the old terracotta tiles from flying away in the wind like a cloud of pigeons.

Antique Sicilian Terracotta Roofing Tiles, Copyright Jann Huizenga

The finished roof, excruciatingly slow as it has been, looks gorgeous in the amber glow of late afternoon. But what do I know. Will it keep the rivers of rain outside? Will the damp house one day be a dry house?

Antique Terracotta Roof in Ragusa Ibla, Sicily, Copyright Jann Huizenga

Earlier in the day I’d rushed down in a panic from Rome because a neighbor had told me my scaffolding permit was about to expire. A denuncia against me—an official denouncement to the police—was under discussion by neighbors. None of my brushes with officialdom in Italy have been good; I’m especially nervous about being on the wrong side of the law in a country where even a bounced check can land you in the slammer.

But in true Sicilian fashion, disaster has been averted just in the nick of time. Fifteen minutes before the permit expires, my project manager tracks down a friend in the comune.

C’e l’abbiamo fatto!” he enthuses, winking and brandishing the new papers. “We did it! It’s been extended. You’ve got to have friends in Sicily.”

Yes, you’ve got to have amici. A truism that becomes clearer to me each day. A friend of a friend—a virtual stranger—has, with astounding Sicilian generosity, donated all the materials for the next phase of the project: the plastering of leaky exterior walls.

Old Terracotta Roof Tiles in Southeast Sicily, Copyright Jann Huizenga

But will the wall work drag on forever, like the roof did?

Will I give neighbors another reason to denounce me?

Will my  husband ever come to Sicily? Will he ever want to see this old house?

xxx

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Asparagus: A Story of Stalking and Snapping

February 16, 2010

Stalks of Wild Asparagus, copyright Jann Huizenga

Starting in February, Sicilians take to the hills and valleys to hunt for wild spring asparagus.

The first time I stalked asparagi was with a party of friends in a wildflower-strewn valley just beyond Ragusa Ibla. We were led into battle by my friend Gio’s father, Signor Battaglia, a tailor with a zeal for women and wild edibles.

Though the skinny spears grew waist-high, they weren’t easy to spot. They lurked in brambles and behind stone drystone walls. For several hours we rambled through the golden freshness playing a kind of Where’s Waldo with asparagus.

“Look! There are five right ahead of me,” Signor Battaglia would say. He’d stop dead in his tracks to let our eyes focus. But the flora was tangled and we were asparagus-blind. He’d scowl with mock impatience, then inch forward to tap each tender green shoot with the tip of his cane. We’d erupt in surprise, and someone would clamber over a rock wall or wade deep into the brush to pluck the tall spears with a satisfying snap.

When we’d collected enough wild food to feed a village, we headed back to the house to prepare lunch with our dewy ingredients.

I’ve written elsewhere about this meal and special man, Signor Battaglia, who for me is the incarnation of Sicilian joie de vivre.

I thought about him yesterday and started craving asparagus. Since I’m not in Sicily at the moment, I had to settle for stalking spears in the vegetable aisle at Trader Joe’s. I found some good organic skinny spears. I love asparagus best roasted, so here’s what I did:

1. Snap off woody ends.

2. Wash well  (store-bought variety can be gritty).

3. Put in baking dish and drizzle with olive oil.

4. Roast at 350 for about 15 minutes.

5. Grind coarse salt and pepper and add a little spritz of lemon if desired.

6. Serve at room temperature as an antipasto or hot as a side dish.

Roasted Asparagus with Wedge of Lemon, Copyright Jann Huizenga

Asparagus has health benefits galore: it clears urine (yup!); contains fiber that encourages digestion; and supports heart health thanks to folate, vitamin B, and the master antioxidant glutathione.

Do you forage for wild edibles? What do you do with asparagi?

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Here’s a link to a blogger in Italy  doing a series on wild edibles.


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