Buon San Valentino

February 13, 2010


Winged Sicilian wooden cherub (putto) with horn, Copyright Jann HuizengaWinged Stone Sicilian Angel, copyright Jann HuizengaWinged wooden Sicilian cherub/angel/putto with trumpet, copyright Jann HuizengaCup of Cappuccino with Chocolate Heart on Foam, copyright Jann HuizengaItalian Wall with Grafitti Hearts, copyright Jann HuizengaItalian lovers, copyright Jann HuizengaGrafitti on Sicilian Wall, copyright Jann Huizenga

Lace-up Italian wedding dress with red rose, copyright Jann Huizenga

Grafitti on Sicilian Wall, copyright Jann HuizengaClick to leave a comment.

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Ragusa Ibla: Where in the World?

February 11, 2010

Well, I’ve been blogging on and on about my adopted Sicilian village for several months now, forgetting to give you an overview of the place.

Do you want to see her? Shall I locate her in space?

View of Ragusa Ibla, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Do you see why I fell head over heels?

View of Ragusa Ibla, Sicily, copyright Jann HuizengaRagusa Ibla is a huddle of homes and churches, the kind of place you want to cradle in your hands.

View of Ragusa Ibla, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

She floats like an island, surrounded by a moat of gorges.

Ragusa lies south of Bizerte, Tunisia in latitude. The soft African air wafts through her piazzas on winter days; rainstorms can deposit Saharan sand.

xxx


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My husband spent a few hours figuring out how to put this Google map on my blog. (Thanks, honey!)

Be sure to check out the satellite view, too.

xxx

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If you liked this post, you might also like:

La Zagara, or How I Was Drugged in Sicily

Is My Existence Legitimate?

Pazienza, A Sicilian Mantra

Restoring a Damp House in Sicily: Part 1

February 8, 2010

The building permit for my little dream house in Sicily has finally been issued. I’m wildly happy.

Work begins.

Or does it? I’ve taken a job way up in Rome to finance the dream, so I cannot be sure.

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But I know one thing: the scaffolding is up in the back of the house. A neighbor sends me this picture.

Renovating an old house in Ragusa Iba, Sicily, scaffolding, copyright Baroque Sicly

I am now the neighborhood eyesore. Not at all bella figura. Neighbors whose main entrance is on the alleyway can barely shoehorn their way into their own homes.

“Just a few weeks,” says the project manager when I call to ask how long it has to stay up.

But January turns to February, and February fades into March. I’m preoccupied with my job in Rome. My mason is in the hospital. My project manager busy with an illness in the family. The scaffolding stands forgotten.

I get a call in Rome from my Sicilian neighbor. “Gianna,” she says, “the neighborhood is complaining. People are arrabiati, angry. They’re afraid of thieves climbing on the scaffolding and breaking into their houses. And did you know the permit is about to expire?”

“Really?” I yelp.

I don’t expect what comes next.

“Neighbors are talking about filing a denucia, a formal complaint to the police.”

I take a deep breath and catch the next plane down.

xxx

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Driving in Sicily: A Wall Struck My Car

February 5, 2010


I don’t claim to be the world’s best driver. Not by a long shot.

But I never had actual accidents till I started driving in Sicily.

Look at this. It’s the center of Ragusa Ibla. Could you squeeze through these streets?

Narrow Street in Ragusa Ibla, Sicily

I feel little stabs of fear bumping over the S-shaped lanes of Sicilian hill towns.

I’ve torn off a side-view mirror or two. A bumper or two. Never hit anybody, though.

You can’t blame me. There was this one time when a wall came out of nowhere and hit me. Then there was the time a mirror jutting out from a parked Fiat struck my car.

Motorcycle in Narrow Sicilian StreetThis guy has the right idea. Drive a motorcycle in Sicilian hill towns. It’s really the only vehicle that fits.

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Here I am–a straniera of a certain age–trying on a little Vespa for size. What do you think? Should I? Could I? Darest I?

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Tourist tip: Get full collision coverage when driving in Sicily. But don’t let the idea of driving on the island worry you unnecessarily: it’s an absolute joy to drive on the open road in Sicily. By the way, Kemwel is the cheapest car rental consolidator I’ve found for Sicily. They’re professional and fast about following up on accidents and suchlike. Ask for your AAA, ARP, whatever discount AFTER they quote a price.(Just please don’t mention me or this post if you contact them! Yikes. They’ll never let me rent again. )

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Yes, You Can! (Speak Italian)

February 3, 2010

She hoped to read Dante in the original, my sister did, to discuss him in his native tongue.

But first she needed to pick up some basics.

Student at ibla! Language School

So she came all the way from Los Angeles to enroll in ibla!, a tiny Italian language school housed in a palazzo just steps from Ragusa Ibla’s cathedral.

ibla! Language School, Ragusa Ibla, Italy

I’d already spoken with the director and head teacher. They’d assured me that their teaching method was “communicative” and “fun” and “modern.” But I wondered. I’d seen language classes in Italy where teachers clung to an approach as antiquated as the Roman Forum itself.

But here’s what Linda has to say about the experience:  I spent a week studying Italian at ibla! school in spring 2009 and loved it! The teachers were hip and fun and tailored the classes to our level. They used conversation, games, interesting exercises and homework and really helped us become more skilled in speaking Italian. I made some good friends, loved the comfortable classrooms and also the historic setting (Ragusa Ibla is beautiful). I recommend this school and am looking forward to returning and taking more classes.

The classes at ibla! are very small, especially in off-season—sometimes just two people.  This can be a beautiful thing if you like lots of practice and individual attention. But the downside—at least for some people—might be that you don’t get to meet many classmates, and you may be hanging out alone in your free time.

Haven’t  you always wanted to speak the language of love?  It’s never too late to learn. ibla! runs a special “Over50 Program” that combines Italian with the study of culture, wine and food. Yum. What are you waiting for?

If you’re lucky, you may end up speaking Italian with a baroque accent. Sicilians love exaggeration. Baroque is in their bones. Consider this: no food in Sicily is merely good, buono, it’s always buonissimo, to die for. No human being is just plain ugly, brutto, he’s bruttissimo, hideous. No car or view or cake or shoe in Sicily is ever beautiful, bella, it’s always bellissima, drop-dead gorgeous.

If it’s excitement and glitterati you’re after, study Italian in Florence or Rome. If you’re looking for baroque charm and hospitality in a sweet (and relatively inexpensive) stone village, I recommend ibla!

Piazza Duomo, Ragusa Ibla, Italy

Here’s ibla!’s website.

If you can’t make it to Sicily to study Italian, if you can’t leave home at all, think about taking advantage of a distance-learning program to polish your language skills. Cyberitalian is a website devoted to teaching Italian and Italian culture. The director, Maura Garau, once headed the Italian program at the United Nations Circolo Culturale Italiano, and she knows what she’s doing when it comes to language instruction.

If you’re already at an intermediate level of Italian and want to speak more idiomatically, enjoy and learn from Dianne Hales’ fun (free) blog Becoming Italian Word by Word.

Follow your own star, as Dante would say, or more precisely, “Se segui tua stella, non fallirai a glorioso porto.”

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Do you have a yen to speak Italian? If you already know Italian, do you have a secret to help the rest of us?

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