Joy in Sicily

October 24, 2013

Her name is Joy (Gioia in Italian, pronounced Joy-ah). You’ll find her serving up gioia in the form of happy smiles and cocoa flowers in the corner bar on the main piazza of Santa Croce Camerina.

Not only that, the lone pensioner on the bar stool–an ancient farmer with a single tooth–wanted to buy my coffee.*

Can you see what I love about Sicily?

Sicilian Barista, copyright Jann Huizenga

*Couldn’t let him, though.

***

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How to Pick a Sicilian Olive

October 14, 2013

Ponies a-prancin’; olives a-dancin’.

That’s how it is this time of year in Sicily.

Horses in Sicilian Field, copyright Jann HuizengaThrow down that net and let’s get busy. There’s a bumper crop. The limbs surge with bounty.

Harvesting Olives in Sicily,copyright Jann Huizenga

You can do it by hand.

Harvesting Olives by Hand in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Or use a big red comb.

Harvesting Olives in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Or a motorized gadget, sort of like a fan on a heavy long pole.

Harvesting Olives in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Olives bounce everywhere, along with an avalanche of twigs and leaves.

“Could we do this?” I ask the olive pickers, pointing to Diana (whose trees these are) and myself.

They laugh at the idea. “You have to be strong, signora.” They flex their muscles, just in case we don’t get it.

Harvesting Olives in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

The men wrestle the whole back-breaking mess into the tractor and hurry to the olive press, which is heavy with the scent of hot sun and bitter soil. Total haul: 570 kilos of olives.

Nearly three hours later, after the olives are washed and thrashed and mashed and milled, out gushes the good stuff, a thick ribbon of green velvet.

At the Olive Press in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

We sip it from paper cups and taste all of Sicily: it’s like fresh-cut country grass still wet with morning dew, squeezed with sweet lemons and spattered with peppercorns.

***

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Tin-Clad Doors, Sicily

October 7, 2013

I love Sicily’s wrinkled old tin-clad doors.

Sicilians are giving them the heave-ho.  They rip ’em out, heartlessly, and put in sleek white ones with blank-eyed glass in the center.

I know, I know. I’m probably the only one on the island to treasure these things. It’s just ugly old junk to Sicilians. Out with the old! In with the new! We’re not some kind of backward old island!!! Give us the new!!! Sleek modern designs! Give us shiny chic doors from Milan! Dump these onto the rubbish pile. Out! Out! Out! There was a time, not so long ago, when we were poor. Imagine. So poor that our wooden doors, rotted by a chafing sun, had to be tinned instead of replaced.

After they’ve torn them all out, they’ll ache for them. Just wait.

Tin-faced door in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

TIn-faced door in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Tin-clad door in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Rusty Keyhole on a tin-clad door, copyright Jann Huizenga

Vintage Sicilian tin-clad door, copyright Jann Huizenga

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