Shabby Chic Scicli, Sicilia

May 25, 2010

Can you say that five times, fast?

Pronounced chic-ly, Scicli is not at all chic, though I suppose you could call it shabby chic. It’s got that vintage, distressed look—complete with a baroque voluptuousness, flakey paint, and mottled sandstone walls.

Windows in Scicli, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Go if you like out-of-the-way little gems.

It was a Moorish town a millennium ago, later a Norman one, and was rebuilt in the Baroque style after the 1693 quake. Then Time forgot little Scicli until it was declared a World Heritage Site in 2002. It is slowly waking up from a long torpid slumber.

Church in Scicil, Sicily, Copyright Jann Huizenga

It has its share of ogres, meant to keep foreigners and evil spirits at bay.

Ogres in Scicli, Sicily, Copyright Jann Huizenga

Hike up to the decaying Church of San Matteo if you dare. You’ll be amply rewarded with stunning views: a sapphire sea on your left and a town that looks like a stage set at your feet.

Church of San Matteo, Scicli, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Enrico Guglioto of Pomodoro restaurant, Scicli, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

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The best place in town for lunch is Pomodoro, owned by Enrico Gugliotto (pictured here) and his brother Giuseppe (in the kitchen). It’s about a five minute walk from the baroque heart of Scicli (Corso Garibaldi 46, closed Tuesday, 0932.931.444).

And check out the gorgeous Scicli cemetery if you’re into stone cherubs and angels. It’s just outside of town.


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Readers, can you help me? Will you consider voting for my Sicily photograph in the Islands poll? Here’s the link. The link will bring you to a photo I shot of a Sicilian woman in Capo Passero (in the extreme southeast corner of Sicily). You can vote by clicking on *My Favorite* underneath the photo. (I could win a photography course and you could win a camera!) GRAZIE MILLE! (To see thumbnails of all 22 photos in the competition, click this link.)

Sicily, and a Nostalgia for Lace

April 5, 2010

Like spun sugar.

Snow white.

Sicilian lace, full of grace.

Lace at Sicilian Window, copyright Jann Huizenga

Sicilian Lace in Window, copyright Jann Huizenga

Sicilian Woman Working on Lace, copyright Jann Huizenga

It’s women’s work, an eye-straining affair.

Sicilian Lace on Door, Siracusa, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Sicilian Lace on Door, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Twenty years ago Sicily’s shops brimmed with handmade local lace. Now it’s often made in China.

Antique Sicilian Lace Panel, copyright Jann Huizenga

Sicily’s art of lacemaking is dying, and isn’t that a shame?

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Note for tourists: There’s a fine little museum of Sicilian hand embroidery and lace in Chiaramonte Gulfi in southeastern Sicily (a hilltop village also known for its olive oil museum and pork restaurant, Majore).


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In Sicily Lies the Key to Everything

March 27, 2010Sicilian Men Chatting, copyright Jann Huizenga

To have seen Italy without having seen Sicily is to not have seen Italy at all, for in Sicily lies the key to everything.

Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Italian Journey

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Thanks everyone for all the great comments you’ve left in the last few weeks. It was hard to choose a winner in the  contest, but finally, with my husband’s help, I narrowed it down to Melissa Muldoon, for the comment she left here. Congratulations Melissa! She’ll receive DK’s Top 10 Sicily. Melissa is a super (or as she says, “crazy”) student of the Italian language, and blogs in Italian, often about Italian cultural topics. Check  out her blog here.

And watch for my next book contest coming next month!

Sicily is an Old Wall

March 17, 2010

Sicily is an old wall, pitted and crumby as stale cake.

Old Sicilian Wall, copyright Jann Huizenga

Burning with Pompeian colors.

Old Wall in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Glowing with graffiti.

Old Sicilian Wall, copyright Jann Huizenga

Wrinkled as an ancient face.

Old Sicilian Wall, copyright Jann Huizenga

Yellowed as old newsprint.

Old Wall in Siracusa, Sicily, copyight Jann Huizenga

Fresh-plastered walls don’t have half the charm.

UNESCO money has poured into Southeast Sicily’s eight World Heritage towns. Let’s hope restorers don’t get too zealous.

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