A Cannolo to Die For

August 30, 2010

I have met the enemy, and he is the cannolo. Not just any old cannolo, but the heart-stopping, moan-inducing ones at Trattoria Al Molo in Donnalucata, on the southern shores of Sicily. I’d like to die eating one of their cannoli. Does this make sense?

What words can describe it?  When you sink your teeth through the crispy-light crust, an orange-flower-infused ricotta comes bursting forth, perfuming your entire mouth. Your eyelids grow heavy and you sway like the sea. Even days later, I’m crazy mad with the memory.

This cannolo is slim and delicate, unlike the pipe-bomb cannoli you find in Brooklyn, or Palermo. And by the way, do you know how the cannolo got its name? The dough used to be molded around canna, cane (reeds) such as these.

Sicilian Cannoli with Canna (Cane), copyright Jann Huizenga

Sicilian cannoli once protected against evil spirits and symbolized fertility. Now they have their own Facebook page. Hal Licino claims that Sicily’s best cannoli are found on the western end of the island, calling EuroBar in tiny Dattilo near Trapani the “Ultimate Altar of Cannolidom.” Hal, have you never been to Donnalucata?

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PS At Al Molo (an unchic place, 0932-937710) sample the razza alla stemperata (sweet and sour stingray).  You know what to order for dessert.

Chef at Al Molo in Donnalucata, copyright Jann Huizenga

Chef at Al Molo

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Love on a Sicilian Beach

August 15, 2010

Love has no uttermost, as the stars have no number and the sea no rest.

Eleanor Farjeon

Sicilian Grandfather with Child on Beach in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Two Women on Sicilian Beach, copyright Jann HuizengaElderly Sicilian Couple Sitting in Water, copyright Jann Huizenga

Morning has broken, water-soft, love-silent.

But in a few hours a tangle of nut-brown limbs and blue umbrellas and flip flops will storm these sands. “I Wanna Be a Macho Man” will come crashing, throbbing, tumbling across the waves all the way to Malta, all the way to Africa. Happy Ferragosto to all!

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Do you have a favorite photo of a pair on the beach? Please send and I’ll post it here.

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Thank you to Lucy Christie, who sent in these photos:

Daughter, Copyright Lucy Christie

Two Chairs, Lake Huron, Ontario: Photo by Lucy Christie

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Sicilians in Speedos

August 6, 2010

Sicilian in Speedo on Beach in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

I got a little pile of emails and comments about proper beach attire for men a few blogs ago, so I decided to pursue  the topic.

“It seems weird,” said my Italian friend Roberta as we sipped iced tea with a scoop of lemon granita floating on top, “to see a guy on the beach not wearing a Speedo. What’s he trying to hide?”

Sicilian men of all shapes and ages seem perfectly at home in skimpy little Speedos, as opposed to their American counterparts, who turn up at the beach swathed in baggy shorts down to the kneecap, complete with inner lining. Why is this? If you have any insights into this cross-cultural diff, fammi sapere, lemme know!

Sicilians in Speedos 2, Copyright Jann HuizengaSicilians in Speedos 3, Copyright Jann Huizenga

Sicilian in Speedo on Sicilian Beach, copyright Jann HuizengaSicilian in Speedo on Sicilian Beach, copyright Jann Huizenga

A recent article in the Huffington Post called “Speedos are Back” shows lots of great styles on the Milan runways!

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Don Juan in Sicily

July 29, 2010

I pick up Signor Giovanni at the beach, on the golden shores of the Ionian.

Take a picture, he commands, seeing my camera.

I oblige.

He draws a tattered poem from a pocket. Per te, for you, he says, already addressing me with the familiar form. The poem has lines like this:  You’re a beautiful table, so bountiful I barely know where to begin.

I thank him and return to my caffè-shack “office.” He follows and pulls from his breast pocket a chapbook of poems.

“Mine,” he says. “I wrote them all.”

Opposite each love poem is a black and white photo of his younger self in various poses: flexing biceps on some long-ago beach, posing in a smart sailor outfit next to some long-gone naval vessel; rowing an antique wooden boat. “Look at those addominali, he says, pointing to his youthful six-pack.

I scan the poems, charmed that this man—who says he’s had a hard life farming tomatoes and only four years of school—has produced this work.

He says his poetry has opened doors, including to the nearby Club Med, where he’s met oh so many foreign women.

He writes down his phone number and asks about a husband.

C’è ne uno,” I say. There is one.

He shrugs. “Non importa.” And hands me another poem—this one called Paradise For Us.

Signor Giovanni reciting his poetry

Have you met Don Juan in Sicily or elsewhere?

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Sicilians Hit the Beach

July 19, 2010

Sicilians love their mare in summer.  There’s been a mass exodus from the inland baroque towns; everyone’s hit the beach. The odd thing is that when Sicilians “go on vacation,” they travel en bloc, with all their friends and neighbors. So Ragusani move 15 kilometers away  to the summer village of  Marina di Ragusa for July and August; Modicani move to Marina di Modica; people from Noto go to Marina di Noto—you get the picture.

“Why would you want to go on holiday to a place where you don’t know anybody?” asks a Ragusan friend when I express surprise at this herd behavior.

Those who can’t afford a second home in Marina pitch tents on the beach and mingle with extended families from sunup to sundown, gobbling up gelato and platefuls of pasta alla Norma. Just before the Festival of San Giovanni Battista on August 29, everyone migrates back to Ragusa, as if a mighty shepherd is herding them all back at once.

Sicilian Couple at Beach, copyright Jann HuizengaSicilian Father and Son at Beach, copyright Jann HuizengaSicilian Life Guards at Beach, copyright Jann HuizengaSicilian Man at Beach, copyright Jann HuizengaSicilian Men at Beach, copyright Jann Huizenga

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