A New Year Dawns on a Sicilian Piazza

January 1, 2012

After days of chilly wind and rain, 2012 started just purrfectly.

There was bright white sun on the piazza.

And a gigantic, baroque Kiss-Fest.

I smooched with my newspaper-tobacco man. I don’t know his name, but he held me in a tight embrace.

I pecked the pink cheeks of the myopic, eccentric composer who once invited me and my husband into his house to show off his antique objets, family coat of arms, and pianos.

I kissed the village aristocrat, who towers head and shoulders above all the other little men of his WW II generation.

My husband, a rather shy and undemonstrative sort, had to embrace these same men. Their abrasive stubble unnerved him, and he got his sunglasses tangled up in the specs of the myopic composer. “I’d only let Sicilians get away with this,” he said.

I did not get photos of him cringing and doing the Sicilian Smooch-Smooch Ritual (darn), but here are others from New Year’s morning on the piazza:

Coffee and brioche at a Sicilian al fresco bar, copyright Jann Huizenga

brioscia integrale con miele

Two Sicilian Men, copyright Jann Huizenga

Scene in Ragusa Ibla, copyright Jann HuizengaSicilian Man in Little Truck (Ape), copyright Jann Huizenga

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Patience, Pastry, Paradiso

September 3, 2011

Pazienza. A Sicilian mantra.

For one full year, I had the patience of a saint.

My favorite al fresco coffee bar sat at the foot of this scaffolding.

Each morning the sandblasted stone let loose an angry flurry of grit, turning my laptop a dusty gray.

Eyes stung, ears hurt.

Paradiso lost.

Scaffolding on Church in Ragusa Ibla, copyright Jann Huizenga

But now the church of San Giuseppe has been unveiled. Life is back to normal. Splendor in the morning sun.
Church of San Giuseppe in Ragusa Ibla, copyright Jann Huizenga

Dustless coffee. Noiseless pastry.

Paradiso regained.Pistachio Brioche in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

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Water from Stone

August 9, 2011

Water runs again in our village fountains.

How many years were they dry? I’m not sure, actually, but this year the village coughed up around 250,000 euro to make them gush again.

These antiques now have a modern twist. See for yourself.

 

Restoring a Fountain in Ragusa Ibla, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Restoring Ibla's Fountains

A large, wide basin at the foot of Ragusa Ibla where donkeys drank and women did the laundry is also under reconstruction.

Ragusa Ibla is lucky to have money for things like this, thanks to its status as a World Heritage Site. In the poor village of Cassaro about an hour away, a wall mural has replaced the old village fountain. It sort of breaks my heart.

Mural on wall in Casaro, Sicily, Italy, copyright Jann Huizenga

Casaro, Sicily

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Cowboy in Sicily

May 12, 2011

An anonymous, solitary hour.

Lured by the promise of coffee, I step through vacant emptiness.

But what is this?

A dozing cowboy?

What crazy hope lured him here?

Cowboy in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

I sip a strong coffee.

Was he just a dream from that other life of mine?

When I go that way again, he’s gone.

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Night Walk to the Cathedral

April 20, 2011

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