Tonno con Cipolle: Lunch for One

July 8, 2010

Onions, copyright Jann HuizengaI’m trying to learn the Sicilian art of slow living, so my Sicilian self often sits down for a leisurely hot lunch at midday. Today’s was exceptional. Made by moi for moi.

But, really, all the credit goes to Giovanna Giglio, a cooking teacher in Ragusa.

Giovanna in her garden

My niece and I took classes with her in June; this is just one of her wonderful recipes. Super easy! Prep and cooking time less than 10 minutes. If you’re interested in lessons with Giovanna, contact me. She’s fun and inexpensive. Though she says she’s “just a housewife who cooks like all other Ragusan housewives,” she’ll be featured in Saveur magazine next spring baking her Easter breads.

TUNA WITH ONIONS

Ingredients (serves 4)

*fresh tuna fillets for 4 (about a 1/2-inch thick)

*olive oil

*2-4 large onions

*10-15 cherry tomatoes

*capers

*fresh oregano

*salt and pepper

1. Coat the tuna fillets lightly with flour. This will allow the fish to cook quickly and will seal in the juices. Heat olive oil in a large frying pan. Cook the tuna for a minute or two on each side until golden. Remove from pan.

2. Cut the onions in half and then cut them thinly into moon-shaped pieces (they’re pretty this way but can also be sliced any which way). Add them to the oil and juices already in the pan (add a bit more oil if needed). Fry until slightly wilted and golden.

3. Add the cherry tomatoes to the pan until they soften (you can mush them with a fork).

4. Add capers to taste. If you’re using salt-preserved capers, be sure to rinse them before adding. (I used to be caper-phobic, but now that I know to rinse these babies, I’m quite smitten.)

Rinse the capers!

5. Put the tuna back into the frying pan, add the fresh oregano, salt and pepper and let everything simmer for a few minutes so that the tuna is infused with the flavor of the other ingredients.

6. Remove everything to a serving platter. The dish is good served hot, but even better served at room temperature. (You can let the tuna sit out for a couple hours. Refrigerate if you’re going to serve it the next day.)


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Seafood alla Siciliana

I love seafood but have always been a fraidy-cat about cooking it myself. I can throw a fillet under the broiler or on the grill and make Ruth Reichl’s amazing shrimp curry, but that’s about it.

So when Toni Lydecker sent me a copy of her gorgeous new book, Seafood alla Siciliana (Lake Isle Press, 2009) I was excited to expand my repertoire.

Seafood alla Siciliana by Toni Lydecker

Toni’s recipes are super easy to follow and most are short. Exactly what I need to overcome my fish-cooking phobia.

Before sharing the first recipe I tried from Seafood alla Siciliana (a future blog post will feature another), I have some good news:

You can win this cookbook! It’s somewhat smaller than coffee-table size, with thick, glossy paper, very pretty photos, and stories about Sicily’s cuisine. All you have to do is leave a comment on any of my blog posts between now and May 9, and I’ll enter your name for a random drawing on May 10. (You can enter one comment a day, max.) The only hitch is that you must provide a US or Canadian address for the shipping, so my apologies to readers on other continents.

Mahimahi Stewed with Cherry Tomatoes and Capers from Seafood alla Siciliana by Toni Lydecker

(4 servings; prep 10 minutes; cook 20 minutes)

*4  fillets (about 1.5 pounds) cut from medium-firm fish such as mahimahi, bonito, grouper, sea bream, sea bass, cod, or snapper

*sea salt or kosher salt

*1 small onion, chopped

*1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

*1 cup halved cherry or grape tomatoes

*1/3 cup Mediterranean olives (optional)

*leaves from 1 or 2 flat-leaf parsley sprigs, chopped

*1 heaping tablespoon salt-preserved capers, soaked in water for several minutes and drained

*hot red pepper flakes

Directions

Sprinkle the fish fillets lightly with salt.

Combine the onion, olive oil, and 1/4 cup water in a skillet large enough to hold the fillets in a single layer. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer briskly but not furiously until the onion is tender. Add the tomatoes, olives (if using), parsley, capers, red pepper flakes to taste, and another 1/4 cup water.

My skillet before the final step of adding the fish fillets

Once the cooking liquid returns to a simmer, lay the fillets on top, skin side down. Cover and simmer until the fish is cooked through, about 10 minutes. At this point the tomatoes will have released their juices and there should be a small ladleful of brothy sauce for each serving; if not, remove the fish to a platter, add a little more water and heat briefly. Taste and stir in a bit more salt and pepper flakes if needed.

Ladle the sauce into shallow soup bowls; place a fish fillet in each one.

Recipe from Seafood alla Siciliana

My finished product

“Wow,” commented my husband. “This looks and tastes like a restaurant dish!” It brought back a bouillabaisse we had last year in Naples.

Really easy. Really lovely. I served it with a crusty baguette and wished only that I’d added a bit more water at the end, as per Toni’s instructions.

Image from Seafood alla Siciliana by Toni Lydecker, photo by Tina Rupp

Image from Seafood alla Siciliana by Toni Lydecker, photo by Tina Rupp

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Sicilian Standby: Anna’s Pasta Sauce

March 14, 2010

I have a Sicilian friend, Anna, from Catania. Many moons ago, before she married (a chef! che bella fortuna) and had her cherubic child, she stayed with us for a week in New Mexico. At that time I was pretty clueless about Italians. I didn’t realize that they must, absolutely must, eat pasta every single day.

On about the third, maybe the second, day of her visit, I found Anna lurking in the larder. She had unearthed a can of tuna and a can of tomatoes. Then she found a box of dusty spaghetti and clutched it like manna in the desert.

“I’m going to make lunch for you today,” she crowed. “I’ll make what we always make in Sicily when there’s nothing in the house.”

I scribbled this recipe as she whipped up her Sicilian-style sauce in under five minutes. I’ve made it umpteen times since then because, truth be told, there’s often niente in the casita.

Hot pepper flakes are important (I use a smallish red pepper without the seeds), but capers are optional—if you like them you can get a small jar for a few bucks at Trader Joe’s. Parsley or cilantro doll up the dish, but aren’t essential either. Here’s an online recipe that’s quite similar. (It lacks the dash of ruddy wine, though, which I like.) Buon Appetito!

xxx

Sicilian Pasta with tomatoes and tuna, copyright Jann Huizenga

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Win this book!!!!!

I love this tiny up-to-date (2009) guidebook. It packs in information in the form of many top 10 lists. It includes charming out-of-the-way places—the author knows the hidden nooks and crannies of Sicily—and  a few fold-out maps.

HOW? Between now and March 26, write a comment on any of my blogposts. The best comment wins. (“Best” could be funniest, most enlightening, most touching…)

Asparagus: A Story of Stalking and Snapping

February 16, 2010

Stalks of Wild Asparagus, copyright Jann Huizenga

Starting in February, Sicilians take to the hills and valleys to hunt for wild spring asparagus.

The first time I stalked asparagi was with a party of friends in a wildflower-strewn valley just beyond Ragusa Ibla. We were led into battle by my friend Gio’s father, Signor Battaglia, a tailor with a zeal for women and wild edibles.

Though the skinny spears grew waist-high, they weren’t easy to spot. They lurked in brambles and behind stone drystone walls. For several hours we rambled through the golden freshness playing a kind of Where’s Waldo with asparagus.

“Look! There are five right ahead of me,” Signor Battaglia would say. He’d stop dead in his tracks to let our eyes focus. But the flora was tangled and we were asparagus-blind. He’d scowl with mock impatience, then inch forward to tap each tender green shoot with the tip of his cane. We’d erupt in surprise, and someone would clamber over a rock wall or wade deep into the brush to pluck the tall spears with a satisfying snap.

When we’d collected enough wild food to feed a village, we headed back to the house to prepare lunch with our dewy ingredients.

I’ve written elsewhere about this meal and special man, Signor Battaglia, who for me is the incarnation of Sicilian joie de vivre.

I thought about him yesterday and started craving asparagus. Since I’m not in Sicily at the moment, I had to settle for stalking spears in the vegetable aisle at Trader Joe’s. I found some good organic skinny spears. I love asparagus best roasted, so here’s what I did:

1. Snap off woody ends.

2. Wash well  (store-bought variety can be gritty).

3. Put in baking dish and drizzle with olive oil.

4. Roast at 350 for about 15 minutes.

5. Grind coarse salt and pepper and add a little spritz of lemon if desired.

6. Serve at room temperature as an antipasto or hot as a side dish.

Roasted Asparagus with Wedge of Lemon, Copyright Jann Huizenga

Asparagus has health benefits galore: it clears urine (yup!); contains fiber that encourages digestion; and supports heart health thanks to folate, vitamin B, and the master antioxidant glutathione.

Do you forage for wild edibles? What do you do with asparagi?

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Here’s a link to a blogger in Italy  doing a series on wild edibles.


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