One-Minute Dinner Party Desserts, from Sicily with Amore

January 20, 2012

I went to a dinner party not long ago at the dark and windswept edge of what locals call the Sea of Africa. The Sicilian host served a salmon antipasto. Then out came a tasty tomato-and-white-wine pasta followed by chicken involtini and perfect roast potatoes. Elegantissimo.

For dessert he tore open a package of chocolate supermarket cookies and passed the box around the table. A cute and quirky grand finale. Something about it said “We are famiglia.”

Here’s an idea for a slightly more elegant dessert that I’ve also had here. It’s almost as simple. Buy a good cheese or two (Gorgonzola, Parmigiano, or goat cheese, for instance). Pair the cheese with a dollop of interesting honey (maybe something more upscale than the  plastic bear?). You could add a fig or a date or a few pear slices if you’re feeling fancy. Serve with Sicilian moscato, port, or another round of wine.

 

Cheese and honey for dessert, copyright Jann Huizenga

Do you have a simple dessert recipe to share?

How ‘Bout Sciabbo for Christmas?

December 22, 2011

So you’re wringing your hands trying to figure out what in blazes to cook for Christmas Eve?

You can unwring them now: sciabbò is the answer.

These are Sicilian Christmas noodles: a wonderfully easy dish that drew raves (I kid you not) from my three luncheon guests today. The recipe comes from Pomp and Sustenance by Mary Taylor Simeti. Mary is the absolute authority on Sicilian cuisine and its history, and I’m thrilled she’s given me permission to share it with you.

Take a look at some of the ingredients:

Some of the ingredients for sciabbo, Sicilian Christmas noodles, copyright Jann Huizenga

Yes! Cocoa and cinnamon and red wine go into sciabbo.

The complete list of ingredients:

1 medium onion

1/4 cup olive oil

3/4 pound pork meat, diced small (I used ground pork)

2 T tomato extract or 3 T tomato paste

1/2 cup red wine

2 cups plain tomato sauce (I used a good store-bought sauce)

2 cups water

salt

1/2 t ground cinnamon

1 T sugar

1 T unsweetened cocoa

1.5 pounds lasagna ricce (I used pappardelle)

Instructions:

Sauté the onion in the oil until soft. Add the pork and cook, stirring, until browned. Add the tomato extract and the  wine, stirring to dissolve the extract completely.

Cooking Sciabbo, Sicilian Christmas Noodles, copyright Jann Huizenga

Add the tomato sauce and the water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer for about 40 minutes until the meat is tender and the sauce is thick.

Sciabbo, Sicilian Christmas Noodles, copyright Jann Huizenga

Correct the salt (if the extract is salty, it may not be necessary to add more). Stir in the cinnamon, sugar, and cocoa.

Cook the pasta in abundant salted water until it is al dente, drain well, and toss with the sauce. You may wish to serve grated cheese on the side, although I think sciabbo is better without it.

Sciabbo, Christmas Noodles, copyright Jann Huizenga

Merry Christmas!

***

Some Sicilian-Americans still cook seven fishes for Christmas Eve, but Mary Taylor Simeti emailed me that this tradition pretty much died out in Sicily itself after World War II. She has written other wonderful books too, including Sicilian Food: Recipes from an Abundant Isle and a memoir, On Persephone’s Island.

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Sicilian Seafood Cooking

November 7, 2011

Marisa Raniolo Wilkins of the blog All Things Sicilian and More has just published a huge, beautiful tome called Sicilian Seafood Cooking. Congratulations, Marisa. Complimenti!

Sicilian Seafood Cooking by Marisa Raniolo Wilkins

Photo credit Bob Evans

Marisa has generously allowed me to share one of her recipes with you: Swordfish with Pasta and Mint. Note that there are several alternatives for the swordfish in this recipe (see below); I substituted scallops.

Pasta with Swordfish and Mint from Sicilian Seafood Cooking

Pasta with Swordfish and Mint, photo credit Graeme Gillies

Ingredients 

¾ cup extra virgin olive oil

400g (14oz) fish, in 4cm (1½in) pieces

500g (17½oz) rigatoni or other short ribbed, tubular pasta

3 cloves garlic, chopped

½ cup white wine

10–15 mint leaves

300g (10½oz) formaggio fresco, diced (or fresh pecorino, mozzarella or bocconcini)

salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Mint is not a common herb in the rest of Italy and generally most unexpected in a pasta dish anywhere but Sicily. When I first ate a version of this in Sicily in the 1980s, it was made with pesce spada (swordfish). Since then I have cooked it many times using sustainable fish (pesce sostenibile). It’s particularly good with dense-textured fish. I use albacore tuna, mackerel, rockling or flathead. Shellfish also enhances the sweetness.

Method

Heat the olive oil, add the fish and lightly seal it. Cook the pasta. Add the garlic, wine, 4–5 mint leaves and seasoning to the fish. Cover and cook gently until the fish is ready. Combine the pasta, fish, cheese and mint leaves (large leaves cut into smaller pieces) and serve.

 

Variation

*Add a few slices of zucchini lightly fried in extra virgin olive oil (cooked separately and added at the end). Add any juices from the zucchini.

*Add pistachio nuts to complement the sweet taste and the green of the mint and zucchini.

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Buon appetito!!

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Sicilian Jasmine Blancmange & Book Raffle

July 28, 2011

It’s the Season of Jasmine. Take in a lungful and you get high. I don’t know how many Sicilians perfume their family altar with jasmine like Santina does, but I do know many use it in their cooking.

The bush I planted on the balcony two years ago has finally exploded into bloom. So I couldn’t pass up the chance to try the Jasmine Blancmange recipe from a little book called Sicily’s Favorite Recipes by Russotto and Sichel. Below is a slight adaptation.

INGREDIENTS

20 jasmine flowers

500 ml (2 cups) whole milk

50 g (2 oz) white chocolate

50 g (3-4 Tbsp) cornflour/cornstarch

100 g (1/2 cup) sugar (I used more like 1/4 cup)

 

1. Pour the milk in a saucepan and add the jasmine. (I let the jasmine steep in milk  for a while before step 2.)

Sicilian Jasmine Blancmange, copyright Jann Huizenga

2. Bring just to the boil and turn off immediately. Allow to cool and then strain, squeezing the flowers gently to extract the flavor.

3. Add the cornflour to the sugar and mix thoroughly to avoid lumps.

4. Add the grated white chocolate. (I didn’t bother to grate it–just broke it into chunks and it melted just fine.)

5. Place on the stove and stir continuously until thick. Stir briskly for one more minute after the liquid boils and then turn off.

Mixing Sicilian Jasmine Blancmange, copyright Jann Huizenga

6. Pour the mixture into molds, allow to cool, and refrigerate for 2 hours. Decorate.

Sicilian Jasmine Blancmange, copyright Jann Huizenga

YOU CAN WIN SICILY’S FAVORITE RECIPES. It’s the English translation, but recipes are in grams & liters–finding conversions on the web isn’t hard. All you have to do is leave a comment on this post or a previous one and your name will be entered in the drawing to take place at midnight EST on August 1. You need an address either in Italy or North America. Buona fortuna!

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Sicilian Watermelon Gelo (Pudding)

July 7, 2011

Watermelons are piled high wherever you look. These heavy-as-boulder ones come from nearby Pachino, a town famous for its ruby-red tomatoes.

Watermelon truck in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Watermelon used to bore me, conjuring up corporate picnics, American flags, and pig-out contests.

But I like it the Sicilian way–as gelo. It’s simple and fast.

DIRECTIONS

1. Roughly cut up a 3-pound watermelon (seedless, unless you want to pick out seeds one by one as I did) and discard the rind. Puree the chunks until liquified. (I have no blender–I’m trying to live a minimalist life–so I smooshed the chunks with my fists.)

Slice of Sicilian Watermelon, copyright Jann Huizenga

2. Whisk 2/3 cups sugar and 1/2 cup cornstarch in a non-reactive pan. Whisk in the pureed watermelon. (OPTIONAL: Add jasmine flowers.) Bring the mix to a boil over medium heat, stirring constantly. It will take only a few minutes to thicken and bubble.

Making Sicilian Watermelon Gelo, copyright Jann Huizenga

3. Remove from the heat and stir in a teaspoon of vanilla. With a rubber spatula, scrape the mixture through a fine sieve into a bowl. You can leave it in the big bowl, or spoon it out into individual serving bowls, as I did. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for several hours.

Making Sicilian Watermelon Gelo, copyright Jann Huizenga

4. To serve, garnish with some or all of the following: grated dark chocolate, ground cinnamon, chopped pistachios, jasmine flowers. Serve with whipped cream if you like the calories.

Sicilian Watermelon Gelo (Pudding), copyright Jann Huizenga

This recipe was adapted from Saveur. Hope you enjoy it!

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