Sweeping, Weeping in Sicily

July 12, 2010

The street sweepers here wear suits bright as orange rind and dance with twig brooms.

I see them in the early morning as I stumble across the piazza in the direction of a latte macchiato. They clear the streets of bougainvillea petals and the debris of summer weddings: hearts of confetti, bottles of Asti, handfuls of rice.

Street Sweeper in Sicily with Twig Broom, copyright Jann Huizenga

And every morning I pray, “Please Signor Sweeper, hold tight! Hold fast to those twigs. Don’t go all plasticky on me.”

I want to weep when I see the changes sweeping Sicily, her Americanization: the new shopping malls plunked down among the olives, the SUVs, the McDonald’s in Upper Ragusa (though grazie a Dio the one in nearby Modica went belly-up).

So I savor the twigs. Because someday soon they’ll disappear, never to return.

Twig Broom, Sicily, copyright Jann HuizengaClick to comment.

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Tonno con Cipolle: Lunch for One

July 8, 2010

Onions, copyright Jann HuizengaI’m trying to learn the Sicilian art of slow living, so my Sicilian self often sits down for a leisurely hot lunch at midday. Today’s was exceptional. Made by moi for moi.

But, really, all the credit goes to Giovanna Giglio, a cooking teacher in Ragusa.

Giovanna in her garden

My niece and I took classes with her in June; this is just one of her wonderful recipes. Super easy! Prep and cooking time less than 10 minutes. If you’re interested in lessons with Giovanna, contact me. She’s fun and inexpensive. Though she says she’s “just a housewife who cooks like all other Ragusan housewives,” she’ll be featured in Saveur magazine next spring baking her Easter breads.

TUNA WITH ONIONS

Ingredients (serves 4)

*fresh tuna fillets for 4 (about a 1/2-inch thick)

*olive oil

*2-4 large onions

*10-15 cherry tomatoes

*capers

*fresh oregano

*salt and pepper

1. Coat the tuna fillets lightly with flour. This will allow the fish to cook quickly and will seal in the juices. Heat olive oil in a large frying pan. Cook the tuna for a minute or two on each side until golden. Remove from pan.

2. Cut the onions in half and then cut them thinly into moon-shaped pieces (they’re pretty this way but can also be sliced any which way). Add them to the oil and juices already in the pan (add a bit more oil if needed). Fry until slightly wilted and golden.

3. Add the cherry tomatoes to the pan until they soften (you can mush them with a fork).

4. Add capers to taste. If you’re using salt-preserved capers, be sure to rinse them before adding. (I used to be caper-phobic, but now that I know to rinse these babies, I’m quite smitten.)

Rinse the capers!

5. Put the tuna back into the frying pan, add the fresh oregano, salt and pepper and let everything simmer for a few minutes so that the tuna is infused with the flavor of the other ingredients.

6. Remove everything to a serving platter. The dish is good served hot, but even better served at room temperature. (You can let the tuna sit out for a couple hours. Refrigerate if you’re going to serve it the next day.)


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Fine Fellows of Siracusa

July 3, 2010

The great thing about shooting in Sicily is that people beg to have their photo taken. Really!

Girls, this one’s for you. A look at real Sicilian men…

Fruit vendor:

Booksellers:

Fishmonger with stingray:

Drinking buddies:

Drinking Buddies in Siracusa, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Three guys debating parsley:

Three men discussing parsley in Siracusa, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Fishmonger in Siracusa, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

A fine fellow, too:

He’s the reverse side of the stingray seen above.

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Death in Sicily

June 29, 2010

Assai megghiu addivintirai si a la morti pinsirai, goes an old Sicilian saying. You’ll be a better person if you think about death.

The walls in Sicily are bulletin boards of death, so there’s ample opportunity here to think about it.

Death Notice in Sicily, Copyright Jann Huizenga

The black-bordered papers called necrologie are everywhere.  Ciao Nonno Salvatore one reads. Bye Grandpa Salvatore.

Death Notice in Sicily, Copyright Jann Huizenga

A guy with a brush and a pot of glue rides around on his motorino plastering necrologie around town.

Putting Up Death Notices in Sicily, Copyright Jann Huizenga

My Sicilian-American friend Mary, who has lived here for twenty-some years, says she was “freaked out” by the “morbid things” when she first arrived, but I find them endearing. They celebrate you all over the neighborhood for months, even years, while all we Americans get is a tiny newspaper blurb for a day.

Li morti aprinu l’occhi a li vivi, say the Sicilians.

The dead open the eyes of the living.

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