Fasten Your Seatbelt: A Ride Through Sicily

December 7, 2010

A while back I groused about driving in Sicilian hill towns—about the narrowness of  lanes and the stone walls that jump out to smack your side-view mirrors.  Could you squeeze through these streets? I asked.

Now I’m going to show you what I mean. I’m piloting; my husband’s holding the Flip out the window. Put your seat back into full upright position and store your tray table. (click here for video)

By the way, this is the “road” I drive to reach my house.

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You have till the end of tomorrow, December 8,  to enter the random drawing to win Robert Camuto’s Palmento: A Sicilian Wine Odyssey. Just post a comment on any of my blog posts. Click here for more information. I’ll name the winner in my next blogpost. Thank you all for playing!

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Sweeping, Weeping in Sicily

July 12, 2010

The street sweepers here wear suits bright as orange rind and dance with twig brooms.

I see them in the early morning as I stumble across the piazza in the direction of a latte macchiato. They clear the streets of bougainvillea petals and the debris of summer weddings: hearts of confetti, bottles of Asti, handfuls of rice.

Street Sweeper in Sicily with Twig Broom, copyright Jann Huizenga

And every morning I pray, “Please Signor Sweeper, hold tight! Hold fast to those twigs. Don’t go all plasticky on me.”

I want to weep when I see the changes sweeping Sicily, her Americanization: the new shopping malls plunked down among the olives, the SUVs, the McDonald’s in Upper Ragusa (though grazie a Dio the one in nearby Modica went belly-up).

So I savor the twigs. Because someday soon they’ll disappear, never to return.

Twig Broom, Sicily, copyright Jann HuizengaClick to comment.

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Sicily, and a Romance with Old Cobbles

May 20, 2010

Shoes wear out fast in Sicily, and so do feet.

Walking on Cobbles in Sicily, Copyright Jann Huizenga

I buy every Dr. Scholl’s pain relief product on the market. I slather callus goop onto the soles of my feet. I wrap them in moleskin. I’m gellin’.

Cobbles in Sicily, Copyright Jann Huizenga

But I gladly suffer the pain. Because nothing can beat the sheer romance of old cobbles.

Cobblestones in Ragusa Ibla, Sicily, Copyright Jann Huizenga

When your heels hit these medieval stones, they sing! (The stones that is, not so much the heels.)

Cobbles in Sicily, Copyright Jann Huizenga

I love the texture of cobbles under my toes, and the shine rubbed in by generations of hooves, wheels, and feet.

Old cobbles in Ragusa Ibla, Sicily, Copyright Jann Huizenga

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Readers, can you help me? Will you consider voting for my Sicily photograph in the Islands poll? Here’s the link. The link will bring you to a photo I shot of a Sicilian woman in Capo Passero  (in the extreme southeast corner of Sicily). You can vote by clicking on *My Favorite* underneath the photo. (I could win a photography course and you could win a camera!) GRAZIE MILLE! (To see thumbnails of all 22 photos in the competition, click this link.)

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Restoring a Damp House in Sicily, Part 7

April 12, 2010

Into the cramped space under this arch—hardly big enough for a closet—I plan to stuff an entire bathroom: sink, toilet, shower, heat rack, mirror, towel racks. The project manager is insisting on a bidet (he says no Italian can live without one), but you’d have to put your foot in the bidet to squeeze into the shower.

This is part of the cantina, the old wine cellar that is slowly morphing into guest quarters.

I plan to expose as much stone as possible inside and above the arch. The back wall, which needs to be waterproof, will be a sea of tiny tiles. Tiles the blue of a storm-tossed Ionian Sea.

Beastly expensive tiles.

I knew nothing about the cost when I ordered. I didn’t bother to ask the price. I figured: they’re just tiles made right here in Italy, not some expensive import. How much could a few little tiles cost?

The boxes finally arrived from Milan, along with the bill. My eyes popped. I had to read it over and over. I could feel my face on fire.

“Well, you ordered glass tiles,” the project manager says. What did you expect?”

I did notice how lustrous they were, but I had no idea they were glass.

I thumb through the instruction manual that comes with the tiles. The installation looks complicated. “Are you sure the mason is up to this?” I ask the project manager. The mason seems to have perfected the art of banging and pounding, but I’ve never seen him do anything delicate with his thick, calloused hands. Do I trust him with my treasures? Has he ever installed anything of the sort?

Non preoccuparti,” says the project manager, winking. Don’t worry.

This is the favorite phrase down here. It usually means trouble.

But who am I to argue?

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Sicily: A Story of Sitting Around

April 8, 2010

The men in my town are good at sitting around.

SIcilian Men Sitting Outside a Circolo

I like this; it makes the streets feel homey.

Retired guys gather at circoli, men’s clubs, like the above circolo for operai (workers) in Ragusa Ibla.

Sicilian men sitting outside in Ragusa Ibla

The Circolo di Conversazione for noblemen is on Piazza Duomo. Note the heavy brocade drapes and the fact that the aristocrats lounge on wooden chairs instead of plastic ones. Inside swing old cut-glass chandeliers.

Ragusa Ibla, Sicily, Circolo di Conversazione

The Circolo di Conversazione is across the street from the fishermen’s club. Someone told me the two groups never mingle or even exchange a buon giorno, but I’m not sure if that’s true.

Sicilian Men Sitting Outside Circolo San Giorgio, Ragusa Ibla, Sicily

Tourist tip for women in Sicily: don’t let the fixed stares of sitting-around Sicilian elders put you off. They’re curious, bored, sweet as pie. I started a conversation with these members of Circolo San Giorgio—yet another club in Ragusa Ibla—and the men responded with Old World courtesy, eager to use their schoolboy English to discuss New Jersey cousins, American politics, and World War II, when the Allies charged through the area during Operation Husky. They even invited me inside!

Two Sicilian Men on a Bench

I wonder what the wives are doing while the husbands are sitting around.

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