Shabby Chic Scicli, Sicilia

May 25, 2010

Can you say that five times, fast?

Pronounced chic-ly, Scicli is not at all chic, though I suppose you could call it shabby chic. It’s got that vintage, distressed look—complete with a baroque voluptuousness, flakey paint, and mottled sandstone walls.

Windows in Scicli, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Go if you like out-of-the-way little gems.

It was a Moorish town a millennium ago, later a Norman one, and was rebuilt in the Baroque style after the 1693 quake. Then Time forgot little Scicli until it was declared a World Heritage Site in 2002. It is slowly waking up from a long torpid slumber.

Church in Scicil, Sicily, Copyright Jann Huizenga

It has its share of ogres, meant to keep foreigners and evil spirits at bay.

Ogres in Scicli, Sicily, Copyright Jann Huizenga

Hike up to the decaying Church of San Matteo if you dare. You’ll be amply rewarded with stunning views: a sapphire sea on your left and a town that looks like a stage set at your feet.

Church of San Matteo, Scicli, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Enrico Guglioto of Pomodoro restaurant, Scicli, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

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The best place in town for lunch is Pomodoro, owned by Enrico Gugliotto (pictured here) and his brother Giuseppe (in the kitchen). It’s about a five minute walk from the baroque heart of Scicli (Corso Garibaldi 46, closed Tuesday, 0932.931.444).

And check out the gorgeous Scicli cemetery if you’re into stone cherubs and angels. It’s just outside of town.


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Readers, can you help me? Will you consider voting for my Sicily photograph in the Islands poll? Here’s the link. The link will bring you to a photo I shot of a Sicilian woman in Capo Passero (in the extreme southeast corner of Sicily). You can vote by clicking on *My Favorite* underneath the photo. (I could win a photography course and you could win a camera!) GRAZIE MILLE! (To see thumbnails of all 22 photos in the competition, click this link.)

Day of the Dead

November 2, 2009

A few years ago, I wanted to buy a ruin of a house on a solitary road out beyond the Ragusa cemetery. Sicilian friends (perfectly rational, well-educated ones) said I was matta, insane, that I’d be visited at night by dead souls.

“What do you mean?” I hollered. “I live two blocks from a cemetery in the US and I’ve never seen a ghost!”

They looked at me mournfully and insisted that the danger was real. They themselves would absolutely never pay me a visit there!

So I gave up the idea of that house with its faded pink walls, shocked at how alive the dead are in Sicily.

Sicilian cemeteries are always set well outside of town behind imposing walls. Below is the Scicli cemetery, full of mausoleums, magnificent pines and tall cypress.

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Cemeteries here are well-tended, with custodians and on-site florists. They seem to be open most of the day, even during the long lunch break.

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Many of the tombs show pictures of the dead.

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Streets have names, just like in a real town.

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Today is il Giorno dei Morti, Day of the Dead. Sicilian families flock to cemeteries—arms overflowing with lilies, mums, roses, and daisies—to spend time with their dearly departed.

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