Sicily, and a Little Old Red Car

August 14, 2011

1969 Red Fiat 500 in Vizzini, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Wouldn’t you love to own this baby?

“I’ve been trying to persuade him for a long time,” says the man in green, “but he won’t sell.”

We’re in the main piazza of a hill town called Vizzini.

“How old?” I ask the owner.

“1969.”

“Forty-two years old,” says the man in green, wistfully. “But he won’t sell her.”

“You have to be a mechanic like me,” says the owner, “to have a car like this.”

“He won’t sell her to me,” the man repeats. “I keep offering more and more money.”

“I wouldn’t sell her for all the money in the world.”  The mechanic runs his hand over her curves and grins.

1969 Fiat 500 in Vizzini, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

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Water from Stone

August 9, 2011

Water runs again in our village fountains.

How many years were they dry? I’m not sure, actually, but this year the village coughed up around 250,000 euro to make them gush again.

These antiques now have a modern twist. See for yourself.

 

Restoring a Fountain in Ragusa Ibla, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Restoring Ibla's Fountains

A large, wide basin at the foot of Ragusa Ibla where donkeys drank and women did the laundry is also under reconstruction.

Ragusa Ibla is lucky to have money for things like this, thanks to its status as a World Heritage Site. In the poor village of Cassaro about an hour away, a wall mural has replaced the old village fountain. It sort of breaks my heart.

Mural on wall in Casaro, Sicily, Italy, copyright Jann Huizenga

Casaro, Sicily

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Wordless Conversation with a Fishmonger

July 25, 2011

Sicilian Fishmonger in Siracusa, Sicily, copyright Jann HuizengaSicilian Fishmonger in Siracusa, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Sicilian Fishmonger in Siracusa, Sicily, copyright Jann HuizengaSicilian Fishmonger in Siracusa, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Don’t miss the fish and veggie market next time you’re in Siracusa. It’s every morning, starting at 5am. Great entertainment!

 

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Dining with Sisters in Sicily

June 23, 2011

You sip prosecco, nibble sardines and langoustines and Sicilian caponata. Breezy curtains ripple and swing. It feels like you’re in a canopied bed, in One Thousand and One Nights.

But you’re out on a traffic island. In my favorite new restaurant.

Dining at Il Consiglio di Sicilia in Donnalucata, Sicily

Dining at Il Consiglio di Sicilia in Donnalucata, Sicily

Dining on this traffic island is fun! There’s not much traffic, really–just a few Fiats and scooters and kids on bikes. As the curtains billow open, ruffling your hair with warm sea air (the blue Ionian laps just down the street), you glimpse a family playing on their stoop. Children skip by with gelato. You look for a genie to fly from your bottle of wine.

Il Consiglio di Sicilia is owned and run by the four talented siblings of the Cicero family: Antonio, Gabriella, Elisa, and Chef Lucia, just 23 years old.

Lucia, the 23-year-old cook at Il Consiglio di Sicilia

Lucia, the 23-year-old cook at Il Consiglio di Sicilia

Gabriella, your server at Il Consiglio di Sicilia

Gabriella, your server at Il Consiglio di Sicilia

Try the tasting menu (called La Joia), a languid parade:  gorgeous seafood starters, primo, secondo, and desserts, each course accompanied by wine, all for €48.

Sicilian langoustines at Il Consiglio di Sicilia, Donnalucata

Sicilian langoustines at Il Consiglio di Sicilia, Donnalucata

Marinated Anchovies with Mint at Il Consiglio di Sicilia, Donnalucata, Sicily

Marinated Anchovies with Mint at Il Consiglio di Sicilia

Or order a la carte. Pastas include spaghetti con le vongoletagliolini ai ricci, and spaghetti with cuttlefish ink topped with fresh sweet ricotta (€12-15). Second courses include swordfish, baked sea bass, mackerel with herbs and tomatoes (€13-15). All from local waters. And don’t miss out on Chef Lucia’s desserts: cinnamon gelo (pudding), chocolate flan, lemon sorbet, and truly amazing cannoli.

Dining at Il Consiglio di Sicilia, Donnalucata, Sicily

Dining on the "Traffic Island" at il Consiglio di Sicilia

 

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: Donnalucata is a charming fishing village in Southeast Sicily. Il Consiglio di Sicilia is at 79 Via Casmene, next to “Palazzo Rosso” (a Montalbano location)–just ask anyone for directions. Open every summer evening for dinner. They will also do lunch for group so 6 or more when you reserve a day in advance. Tel. 0932.938062 or 340.9448923. Email: info@ilconsigliodisicilia.it

 

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A Man and his Bike

June 11, 2011

Early evening.

Vittoria, Sicily.

A man pedals by.

Sad.

Wistful.

Why?

 

Sicilian Man on Bike in Vittoria, copyright Jann Huizenga
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