February 3, 2014
Minni di virgini, virgins’ breasts—little white cakes topped with a candied cherry—are nibbled in early February to remember and celebrate Saint Agatha, the patron saint of Catania. They symbolize (to me at least) what Sicily is all about: an epicurean isle brimming with black humor, where every pain morphs into pleasure. 
Agatha, a pretty daughter of Catania who’d taken a Christian vow of chastity, caught the eye of the pagan Roman governor of Sicily. When Agatha rebuffed his advances, he retaliated by ordering her breasts pulled off. Then he roasted her in a kiln for good measure. She died on February 5, 251.
And so a martyr and patron saint was born. The citizens of Catania still celebrate Agatha as fervently as ever from February 3 to 5. On the 4th and 5th, for two long emotional days and nights, thousands of men pull a 40,000-pound silver carriage with Agatha’s relics through the city streets, followed by rivers of devotees. There is a sea of votive candles. Bells peal. Fireworks roar. Babies fly high above the mob, sent forth by trusting parents to touch the saint’s relics. Viva Sant’Agata!
People snack on roast horse meat and virgins’ breasts. The final night, in a dangerous and utterly Sicilian move, the men drag and push Agatha’s heavy carriage up a steep hill in the city center, risking their lives in the process. Yes, when it comes to festivals, Sicily really takes the cake.
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I always enjoy your snippets about life in Sicily. One day, hopefully not too far away, we’ll make it down there. I particularly enjoyed this post and have linked it in my blog. Hope that’s okay. Thank you!
Thank you Jenny!
I find these festivals and devotions beautiful, Jann. I know they can look extreme but anything that evokes such passion can’t be all bad. No wonder the Catanesi can be such mammoni 😉
Celebrating cultural traditions in an increasingly homogenized world seems like a good thing. (Sicilian celebrations seem more like a passion for culture & history than religious fanaticism.)
Jann, the myths of Catholicism will never die for as long as there is Sicily. I’m inspired to visit our Sicilian pastrycook friend Marianna whose pasticceria, Dolcetti, in North Melbourne Australia bakes such edible objects of devotion. We love your site and haven’t forgotten you, as we swelter through summer on the underside of the world. It’s our turn! Ciao Bob & Marisa
Hey Bob!!! So nice to hear from you. Sicily misses you both. xxxx
Hi Bob. I’m in Melb. I’m going to pop over to North Melb and check out Dolcetti. Thanks!
Mad and wonderful! I feel I should say, “How Sicilian!” xxx
🙂 Good descriptors.
Beautiful little cakes with such a dark history. I have just finished reading ‘The Stone Boudoir’- ‘In search of the hidden villages of Sicily’ by Theresa Maggio where she devotes a chapter to the feast of Sant’Agata . Sounds dangerous and exciting.
A great book, Francesca. Hope you enjoyed it.
Glad you could share this with everyone. I will be searching for them in Brooklyn Saturday.
Glad you could share this with everyone. I’m on the search here in New Jersey for some. Plan on going to Brooklyn Saturday in search for them, if it ever stops snowing.
Hey Gregory–thanks for giving me the idea for this post! 🙂 It’s snowing AGAIN in NY???
I can see the travel poster now: ” Sicily – Where Virgins’ Breasts Are Nibbled”
Sam, clever clever, if a tad risqué!!
Nothing beats a good Sicilian celebration, I’d love to experience this one some day xx
They’re wild, that’s for sure. xxxxx
Poor Agata! I used to live in S’Agata Sui due Golfi near Sorrento many years ago. I didn’t know about her awful story.
Pretty gruesome, indeed. But I’ve come to learn that lots of saints have similar stories. 🙁
****an epicurean isle brimming with black humor, where every pain morphs into pleasure.****
Brilliant History.
Fabulous Stories.
Xxx WOW. Love!!
Thanks Kim! xxxxx
Oh. My. Gosh. Described this way, it sounds more like a pagan rite than a Christian celebration! Kind of barbaric, wouldn’t you say, to snack on virgin’s breasts, toss babies into the air, and risk one’s life pushing a carriage of relics up a hill?? I’d never heard of this one, though I have heard of St. Agatha. Who knew?? Thanks for educating me, Jann!
Debbie–you hit the nail on the head. Sicilian celebrations have some pagan roots.
I hope you can take photographs of some of the ceremonies. Sounds fabulous! So Sicilian, no?
I’ve only been once, Rosann, and there was such a crush I took no photos. (I have a fear of crowds, not sure when I’ll be going again!!)