Bread and Symbols in Sicily

March 19, 2013

Antonio wipes his floury face.

He dusts off his palms then smiles a shy-smile and hangs back.

The shopper next to me at the register, a tiny woman, blinks up with nut-brown eyes and explodes with words: “Yes, signora, you are right to take a photo of this bread! What he does is an art! And not many do it! How much longer…?”

Antonio unfurls his apron like a dusty flag and follows me out the bakery door into better light.

His opere d’arte–baroque breads, all curves and coils and curlicues–were created for today’s Feast of St. Joseph (Festa di San Giuseppe).

Sicilian Baker with St Joseph's Day Breads, copyright Jann Huizenga

The breads are symbolic. Antonio makes crucifixes and fish, too, but those were sold out by the time I arrived. The one below is half crown of thorns, half crown of roses.
St Joseph's Bread, copyright Jann Huizenga

I forgot to ask what this other one means. It appears to be dancing the tarantella. Any ideas?

St Joseph's Bread, copyright Jann Huizenga

I will not eat these–not because of my pasta paunch, but because of their soul. They will glow on my sideboard until they fall to crumbs.

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Saint Joseph is Sicily’s most important saint, and his feast day is the source of much hoopla in the nearby town of Santa Croce Camerina.

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A Sleepy Village in Sicily Celebrates Carnevale

February 12, 2013

Well, happy Carnevale. While they’re whooping it up in Venice, with masked balls and banquets and elaborate costumes and masks, here in my sleepy village at the southernmost outpost of Italy, the only trace I’ve seen of carnival spirit today is the odd tiger, lion or skeleton.

Carnevale costume in southeast Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Kids at Carnevale in Southeast Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga
I had to run after this little tiger…

Costumed tiger in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

When I caught up to him, I asked where his tiger head was. “I forgot it at home,” he said, clutching his tail.

Carnival costume in southeast Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

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Old Slippers

January 10, 2013

Sicilians like to air things out: pillow, mattress, rug, featherbed, broom.

On balconies. In windows.

Worn shoes. Old slippers.

The year is new, and I’d like to air my life out on the balcony, and let a jasmine-scented wind freshen it up.

Slippers Airing Out in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Airing out slippers in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Airing out shoes, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

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Festa dell’Immacolata

December 9, 2012

Yesterday was the Feast of the Immaculate Conception. It’s a quiet celebration in the village. A line of faithful (mostly women) wend their way over the cobbles with candles, up and down hills, chanting Ave Maria, piena di grazia…, winding up at the Chiesa San Francesco all’Immacolata.

Poster of Virgin Mary in Sicily for Festa dell'Immacolata, copyright Jann Huizenga

Festa dell'Immacolata in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Festa dell'Immacolata in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

I was not raised Catholic, but I’m intrigued by the mystery and ceremony.

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My Quirky Sicilian Village, Part 3 (Bread)

October 16, 2012

We eat bread in rings around here.

They’re bigger than a bracelet, smaller than a hula-hoop.

About necklace-size, I’d say.

So fragrant and pretty that you could almost wear one around your neck with a little black dress. Nibble on it all evening.

But I must not kid. Like olive oil, bread is sacred here. Never place it on the table upside down. Never throw it away. If it’s old, make breadcrumbs. If it gets moldy, kiss it, make the sign of the cross, and apologize to Jesus.

Ring of Sicilian Bread, copyright Jann Huizenga

Ring of Sicilian Bread, copyright Jann Huizenga

What food do you worship?

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