March 19, 2013
Antonio wipes his floury face.
He dusts off his palms then smiles a shy-smile and hangs back.
The shopper next to me at the register, a tiny woman, blinks up with nut-brown eyes and explodes with words: “Yes, signora, you are right to take a photo of this bread! What he does is an art! And not many do it! How much longer…?”
Antonio unfurls his apron like a dusty flag and follows me out the bakery door into better light.
His opere d’arte–baroque breads, all curves and coils and curlicues–were created for today’s Feast of St. Joseph (Festa di San Giuseppe).
The breads are symbolic. Antonio makes crucifixes and fish, too, but those were sold out by the time I arrived. The one below is half crown of thorns, half crown of roses.
I forgot to ask what this other one means. It appears to be dancing the tarantella. Any ideas?
I will not eat these–not because of my pasta paunch, but because of their soul. They will glow on my sideboard until they fall to crumbs.
***
Saint Joseph is Sicily’s most important saint, and his feast day is the source of much hoopla in the nearby town of Santa Croce Camerina.
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February 12, 2013
Well, happy Carnevale. While they’re whooping it up in Venice, with masked balls and banquets and elaborate costumes and masks, here in my sleepy village at the southernmost outpost of Italy, the only trace I’ve seen of carnival spirit today is the odd tiger, lion or skeleton.
I had to run after this little tiger…
When I caught up to him, I asked where his tiger head was. “I forgot it at home,” he said, clutching his tail.
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January 10, 2013
Sicilians like to air things out: pillow, mattress, rug, featherbed, broom.
On balconies. In windows.
Worn shoes. Old slippers.
The year is new, and I’d like to air my life out on the balcony, and let a jasmine-scented wind freshen it up.
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December 9, 2012
Yesterday was the Feast of the Immaculate Conception. It’s a quiet celebration in the village. A line of faithful (mostly women) wend their way over the cobbles with candles, up and down hills, chanting Ave Maria, piena di grazia…, winding up at the Chiesa San Francesco all’Immacolata.
I was not raised Catholic, but I’m intrigued by the mystery and ceremony.
***
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October 16, 2012
We eat bread in rings around here.
They’re bigger than a bracelet, smaller than a hula-hoop.
About necklace-size, I’d say.
So fragrant and pretty that you could almost wear one around your neck with a little black dress. Nibble on it all evening.
But I must not kid. Like olive oil, bread is sacred here. Never place it on the table upside down. Never throw it away. If it’s old, make breadcrumbs. If it gets moldy, kiss it, make the sign of the cross, and apologize to Jesus.
What food do you worship?
***
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All photos and text on BaroqueSicily are Copyright of Jann Huizenga ©2009-2015, unless otherwise noted. Material may not be copied or re-published without written permission. All rights reserved.
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