Translating for Guests in Sicily

November 28, 2012

I’ve had a lot of guests in Sicily.

One spoke no Italian at all and kept roping me into doing her linguistic dirty work.

She loved shopping. We entered Max Mara, a high-end clothing shop. “See if you can haggle with them!” she said, fingering a leather jacket.

I demurred, but she insisted. So I sheepishly asked for a discount on a jacket that was not on sale. The shop clerk looked stunned.

Later, at a bar with a caseful of glittering pastries, she pointed at a pretty little ricotta-filled number. “Ask if it is fresh!” she kept insisting.

Reluctantly I did.

“Of course it’s fresh, signora,” the barista said with an offended look in his eye that his extreme politesse could not hide. “It is our specialty.”

Ricotta pastry in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

The experiences reminded me of a time at a business dinner when I was called upon to translate dirty Italian jokes into English. Stutter. Blush. Torture.

Have you ever been pressured to translate words you’d rather not say?

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Ten Things to be Thankful for in Sicily

November 22, 2012

Here are a few of my favorite things in Sicily, and what I’m thankful for.

Young chefs-in-training in Catania, Sicily, copyright Jann  Huizenga

Laundry on the line in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Dirt on onions in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Stone fountain in Southeast Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Man on bench in Southeast Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Sicilian brioscia, copyright Jann Huizenga

Beach in Southeast Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Espresso bar in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Fruit market in Vizzini, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Bowl of Sicilian granita & gelato, copyright Jann Huizenga

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How to Drink Oil & Impress Friends

 November 18, 2012

It’s olive oil season in Sicily!

A few years ago Giuseppe Rosso, an award-winning producer, taught me the proper way to sample oil.

Giuseppe Rosso, Villa Zottopera, copyright Jann Huizenga

Giuseppe Rosso stands in his ancient olive grove in Chiaramonte Gulfi

We were at Villa Zottopera, his family’s 18th-century masseria in southern Sicily.

Villa Zottopera in Chiaramonte Gulfi, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

The entrance to Villa Zottopera

Villa Zottopera, Chiaramonte Gulfi, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Villa Zottopera is an agriturismo–B&B!!!

The old estate in Chiaramonte Gulfi has thousands of twisted trees. He handed me a tiny cupful of green liquid flecked with gold.

“Hold it tightly in your hands, and do like this.”

Rosso, a non-stop talker with a twinkle in his eye, rubbed the bottom of the glass back and forth against the palm of his hand, as if preparing a magic potion. “The oil must be at body temperature. Now sniff it deeply, toss it behind your bottom lip, and watch me.”

He drained his glass, then made like a human vacuum cleaner, sucking the oil back through his bottom teeth with a big whoosh. I followed suit.

“Now wait.” He went silent for a moment to let me concentrate.

The oil had a bracing effect, tingling my tongue before trickling down the throat in a fruity-pungent sizzle.

I half-coughed.

“What do you taste?” Rosso quizzed. “Tell me what you taste.”

“Pepper.  Sunshine. Grass. . . . Nature!”

My answer was much too generic for him. Did I taste the profumo of almonds, the piccante of tomato leaves??

Uh, no. But I knew delizioso when I tasted it.

Ogghiu comuni sana ogni duluri, Sicilians say. Plain oil heals every pain.

*****

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Slammed…

October 25, 2012

Back in the US of A.

There are the elections, of course.

And the cold supermarkets with their tinny music.

Tasteless tomatoes fill me with gloom.

On the roads, the space between cars seems far too wide, and at the post office, the get-in-line folks do not know the joys of shoving, shouting, and huddling together like walruses. And where are the octogenarians? I feel a pang of acute nostalgia. Why aren’t they yakking it up in tight clumps all over town?

At the coffee shop, the barista does not sing buon giorno! as we enter and exit. He barely makes eye contact.

Life feels flat.

And why is everyone proudly claiming (with too-white teeth) that they are slammed?  When did this word pop up like evil choke-weed? The fundamental difference between these slammed people and the ones lolling around Italy is not lost on me. Americans seem to conduct their lives on a high-speed conveyor belt; have we lost the will to stop and see?

Sicilian Men Playing Cards Outside, copyright Jann Huizenga

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Coupledom in Sicily

September 15, 2012

I’ve been thinking a lot about coupledom lately.

What happens when one half of a couple longs for a thing that the other half is completely indifferent to?

Let’s say the thing in question is Italy.

As in my case.

I learned late, in a halting kind of way, what Anais Nin seems to have known all along: How wrong it is for a woman to expect the man to build the world she wants, rather than to create it herself.

And once I created that world, he sort of liked it. Curiousity waxed. Resistance waned.

Moral: Go out and create the world you want, Sisters!

Sicilian Couple, copyright Jann Huizenga

Sicilian Couple, copyright Jann Huizenga

Sicilian Couple, copyright Jann Huizenga

Sicilian Couple, copyright Jann Huizenga

Sicilian Couple, copyright Jann Huizenga

Sicilian Couple, copyright Jann Huizenga

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***

And the winner is….

The winning name pulled randomly from my coppola for the book EATING IN SICILY  is Giulia! Congratulations Giulia, and please send me your mailing address!

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