June 14, 2012
It’s always a joy to walk the back streets of Rome. Such wonderful walls! I wish I could email you the sweet smells of jasmine and pizza and fresh-baked bread that go along with these scenes…
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February 5, 2012
Winter in Pozzallo, Sicily–all the way down at the tail end of Italy. Alone under a black sky. Beached. Marooned. Missing the glint of the sun. ‘N the bob of the sea. Know the feeling? *** January 5, 2012 Well, Mount Etna–Pillar of Heaven, as the Greeks called her–is spewing her ash again as I write this. First blast of 2012. Clouds of smoke are visible all the way down here. We toured around her just last week. Small puffs of smoke, like breaths on a cold day, blew from her crater into the gray-blue sky. She looked breathtakingly serene then, but there’s always more than meets the eye in Sicily. Vulcan, god of fire, was tink-tinking away in her burning bowels.
How odd to live cheek-by-jowl with such a force of nature. Stone homes–still inhabited–nestle against the black scabs of lava that are etched like witch’s fingers down her green shoulders. Some homes, like the one below, are just a distant memory.  Lava fields outside Randazzo Randazzo, closest to the summit, is a dark town on the north slope built entirely of lava stone.  Church of Santa Maria in Randazzo  Center of Randazzo In spite of the danger, Sicilians feel an intense affection for Etna, identifying deeply with her volatile nature. The boys in Randazzo deck themselves out in black–to match their surroundings I presume–and behave just like Etna, puffing great rings of smoke into the sky.  Scene in Randazzo Does your life lack excitement? Here’s a house for you. It’s just under Etna, and for sale!
*** Tips for tourists: Wine tours and trekking are favorite past-times around Etna. The north face of Etna is a gorgeous place to drive around–full of vineyards, baronial manors, and mountain panoramas, but when you get to down-at-the-heels Bronte (home of the famous pistachio nut), the roads become trashy–especially shocking to see in the presence of this great natural wonder. Click to subscribe to BaroqueSicily.
July 3, 2011 Summer is in full swing. The wind blows up from the Sahara. The sun burns; the Ionian cools.
We’re sitting at a kiosk at the “Aziz” beach, 2 kilometers east of Donnalucata in Southeast Sicily. “Three hours on the beach, the best coffee money can buy, two fresh brioches, and a turquoise view of the Mediterranean that extends to Africa,” Kim says, “All for five euro.” Happy Fourth! Are you on the beach? **** Directions: From Donnalucata, drive 2 kms east (following signs to Marina di Modica and Siracusa). When you see a (faded ) sign that says “Aziz” and “Pizzeria,” turn right and go all the way to the water, where you’ll see a white “kiosk.” Ask locals for help: everyone knows Aziz. Go early to get good parking: the bar opens at 9am and is peaceful until about 11:00. June 23, 2011 You sip prosecco, nibble sardines and langoustines and Sicilian caponata. Breezy curtains ripple and swing. It feels like you’re in a canopied bed, in One Thousand and One Nights. But you’re out on a traffic island. In my favorite new restaurant.  Dining at Il Consiglio di Sicilia in Donnalucata, Sicily Dining on this traffic island is fun! There’s not much traffic, really–just a few Fiats and scooters and kids on bikes. As the curtains billow open, ruffling your hair with warm sea air (the blue Ionian laps just down the street), you glimpse a family playing on their stoop. Children skip by with gelato. You look for a genie to fly from your bottle of wine. Il Consiglio di Sicilia is owned and run by the four talented siblings of the Cicero family: Antonio, Gabriella, Elisa, and Chef Lucia, just 23 years old.  Lucia, the 23-year-old cook at Il Consiglio di Sicilia  Gabriella, your server at Il Consiglio di Sicilia Try the tasting menu (called La Joia), a languid parade: gorgeous seafood starters, primo, secondo, and desserts, each course accompanied by wine, all for €48.  Sicilian langoustines at Il Consiglio di Sicilia, Donnalucata  Marinated Anchovies with Mint at Il Consiglio di Sicilia Or order a la carte. Pastas include spaghetti con le vongole, tagliolini ai ricci, and spaghetti with cuttlefish ink topped with fresh sweet ricotta (€12-15). Second courses include swordfish, baked sea bass, mackerel with herbs and tomatoes (€13-15). All from local waters. And don’t miss out on Chef Lucia’s desserts: cinnamon gelo (pudding), chocolate flan, lemon sorbet, and truly amazing cannoli.  Dining on the "Traffic Island" at il Consiglio di Sicilia
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: Donnalucata is a charming fishing village in Southeast Sicily. Il Consiglio di Sicilia is at 79 Via Casmene, next to “Palazzo Rosso” (a Montalbano location)–just ask anyone for directions. Open every summer evening for dinner. They will also do lunch for group so 6 or more when you reserve a day in advance. Tel. 0932.938062 or 340.9448923. Email: info@ilconsigliodisicilia.it
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