Sicily, and a Little Old Red Car

August 14, 2011

1969 Red Fiat 500 in Vizzini, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Wouldn’t you love to own this baby?

“I’ve been trying to persuade him for a long time,” says the man in green, “but he won’t sell.”

We’re in the main piazza of a hill town called Vizzini.

“How old?” I ask the owner.

“1969.”

“Forty-two years old,” says the man in green, wistfully. “But he won’t sell her.”

“You have to be a mechanic like me,” says the owner, “to have a car like this.”

“He won’t sell her to me,” the man repeats. “I keep offering more and more money.”

“I wouldn’t sell her for all the money in the world.”  The mechanic runs his hand over her curves and grins.

1969 Fiat 500 in Vizzini, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

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Giuseppe, and Memories of Monica Bellucci

August 2, 2011

It’s 7am and already hot in Siracusa. A scirocco is blowing.

I find Giuseppe sitting on his motorino. The way he waves me over makes me think he’s a little bit crazy.

He’s not surprised when I ask if I can take his photo.  He seems to have been waiting for someone like me.


“I was in a film with Monica Belluci,” he says.

A crazy jokester, this guy.

“No, no, veramente!” he says. “You know Malèna?”

“The Tornatore film?”

“Yes, that one. I was in a group of men that yelled Ciao Bella as she walked by. And then, let’s see, there was a scene I played with Mussolini, and we all yelled Il Duce !”

“So you were an actor!”

“Well, I also worked on botta here in the port.”

“What’s botta?”

“Botta, ship.” He’s suddenly trying to speak English.

“What did you do?”

Here Giuseppe loses me, saying something about working inside the boat.

“Did you repair the boat?” I ask.

No, no.

“Did you clean? Cook?”

No, no.

He points to a lamp post and says “material like that.”

Maybe he was a welder?

But we don’t pursue the topic because Giuseppe isn’t interested. He wants to talk movies. He was in other films, too, with other actresses. What were their names? He’s forgotten, but the light in his eyes tells me that those were the days.

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RAFFLE RESULTS

Congratulations to Janie, who has just won the cookbook raffle. Janie is passionate about two things: cooking and Italy. Take a look at her super-scrumptious blog, Panini Girl.

Wordless Conversation with a Fishmonger

July 25, 2011

Sicilian Fishmonger in Siracusa, Sicily, copyright Jann HuizengaSicilian Fishmonger in Siracusa, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Sicilian Fishmonger in Siracusa, Sicily, copyright Jann HuizengaSicilian Fishmonger in Siracusa, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Don’t miss the fish and veggie market next time you’re in Siracusa. It’s every morning, starting at 5am. Great entertainment!

 

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Santina, Part 2

July 21, 2011

Santina and I had drunk our coffees in the kitchen and viewed the family altar in her bedroom. Then she led me into a third small room.

Every inch of wall space was hung with paintings. Unframed canvases were stacked high on a table. “They are mine,” she said, beaming.

Paintings by Sicilian Woman, copyright Jann  Huizenga
She pointed to an exuberant painting of a fishbowl full of roses and purple tulips.

Painting by Sicilian Woman, copyright Jann Huizenga

“One night my mother was suffering so much that I didn’t know what to do. So I painted this.”

She went back into the kitchen and left me looking and thinking. I picked up a portfolio. Its cardboard cover had been painted over with a bright-eyed young woman wearing a strand of pearls.

“Who is this, Signora?” I asked, carrying it back into the kitchen.

Sicilian Woman with Painting, copyright Jann Huizenga

“That is me,” she smiled.

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Thanks to Haley at Fa l’Americana for this nice award.

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Santina, Part 1

July 19, 2011

Santina was leaning over a wall in Modica yesterday morning, snagging a branch of dewy jasmine with her cane.

Collecting Jasmine in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga“Signora, what do you use jasmine for? ” I asked. I expected her to tell me about a dessert she was about to whip up. Sicilians love jasmine in sweets.

Sicilian Woman Collecting Jasmine, copyright Jann Huizenga

“I collect it fresh every day for my ancestors,” she said. “It’s the most refined aroma in the world. It makes them happy.”

She asked me in for coffee.

The espresso was strong and thick. I drizzled it into the red demitasses because, she said, her hands were too shaky.

“I never married; I served my parents until their death,” she said sweeping grains of sugar off the oilcloth. “My married friends told me I was better off single, anyway. But now I’m alone in the world. My sister died. My brother isn’t well. I live in these three rooms–the same place I was born 84 years ago–like a caged bird.” She laughed. “If I find you a man from Modica to marry, will you stay and be my friend?”

She led me  into the next room–a small space with a single bed in one corner. The ancestor shrine took up the rest of the room. She put the bowlful of fresh flowers in the middle of her family.

Ancestor Shrine at Home in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

She was still taking care of her parents. The hot room filled with a thick, sweet smell.

Bowl of Jasmine on Altar in Sicily, copyright Jann HuizengaBut who will take care of her?

***

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