Stoop-sittin’ in Sicily

August 21, 2012

What could be more summertime than stoop sitters?

Summertime Stoop Sitters in Southeast Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Summertime Stoop Sitter in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Summertime Stoop Sitter in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Summertime Stoop Sitters in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Summertime Stoop Sitters in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Stoop Sitters in Sicily, copyright Jann HuizengaClick to subscribe to BaroqueSicily.

Debora, Shiny As Swarovski

August 13, 2012

Meet Debora.

Debora Lo Magno, copyright Jann Huizenga

I found Debora Lo Magno at a wedding, exuding cocktail glamour. She has, in spades, that incredible Italianate ability to transform oneself into a work of art.

Debora Lo Magno, copyright Jann Huizenga

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A few weeks later we met at the bar. I didn’t recognize her right away because her real hair flows down her back in waves.

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“I am 23,  a stilista, fashion designer,” she says. “I have another year of design school before I look for a job as a designer. I spent a year making this dress, working at night, sewing everything by hand. Including the crystals. They’re Swarovski.”

Swarovski!!!!” Indelicately, I ask what they cost.

“The material, the jewels, everything for the dress: around €2,500.”

That’s over $3,000. (Not counting labor.) How can a 23-year-old Sicilian woman afford this?

“Besides going to design school I have two jobs. Monday through Friday, I work as a secretary for an accountant, staring all day long at a computer screen.” (She crinkles her nose when she tells this.) “On Saturday and Sunday I work at Benetton. And all night I sew my clothes–usually till 3 or 4am.”

Giancarlo, her fidanzato, confirms this with a nod of the head and a roll of the eye.

Debora Lo Magno, copyright Jann Huizenga

“My nonna, grandmother, was a seamstress. She was my inspiration. I must be courageous. But following my dream is not so easy. People here do not understand me.”

We are, after all, in the hinterlands of Sicily.

Good luck, Debora! You blow me away!

38% of young people in Sicily cannot find work. Oh, Domenico Dolce, you of D&G fame, son of Sicily, won’t you give this passionate and talented young Sicilian a break?

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Debora’s shoes: handmade in Rome. She tottered for 13 hours on them the night of the wedding resulting in feet so swollen she could barely walk the next day.

Debora’s hair: When she showed her hairdresser the dress, he said she needed a very special “do” and came up with this Japanese anime style using synthetic hair extensions. Debora said the faux hair gave her such a headache that she had to pull it out the next day!

Debora’s purse: Tied to her wrist with Swarovski gems.

Debora Lo Magno

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She of the Blue Curlers, in Sicily

March 4, 2012

What is she thinking, she of the Blue Curlers?

Sicilian Married Couple at Window, copyright Jann Huizenga

And where are his thoughts, he of the White Undershirt?

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Siena, So Long Ago

February 9, 2012

He was sitting in the piazza in quaint little Monterosso Almo, Southeast Sicily, out in front of a bar.

I like your beret. Did you get that in France?

He pulled it off his head to study it, revealing a thick mop of hair the color of sheep’s wool.

No, no. It is from Siena.

Siena?

Si. Siena, Siena, he muttered. Tanti anni fa. So long ago.

Ah!  (I could think of nothing better to say.)

The man got very quiet and a faraway look came into his eye.

I slipped into the bar for a coffee. When I came out, his eyes were still on the horizon and his cigarette unlit.

Sicilian Man in Beret, copyright Jann Huizenga

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Monterosso Almo (the lower part of town)

 

Sicily: Men, Mischief, Motorini

January 26, 2012

They are the charmingest of men, with a hint of mischief.

Not that I have a wandering eye or anything.

Sicilian men favor cigarettes, cool sunglasses, and brilliantine. Many accessorize with gold and maybe a crucifix, or a corno–horn amulet–to ward off the evil eye.

When my sister Linda visited Sicily for the first time, she took a look around and her jaw dropped. “We should be Hollywood scouts! Take these pretty boys to Tinseltown!”

“Linda,” my Sicilian friend–a divorcée–replied, “Are you insane??”

Dear Reader, I’ll let you be the judge.

Sicilian Man Riding Scooter, copyright Jann Huizenga

Scicli

Sicilian Men Carrying Saint in Ferla, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Ferla

Sicilian Man Carrying Religious Robe, copyright Jann Huizenga

Siracusa

Sicilian Men in Ferla, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Ferla

Sicilian Man at Market in Catania, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Catania

Sicilian Man in Noto Leaning on Motorcycle, copyright Jann Huizenga

Noto

Sicilian Vendor of Bathing Suits, copyright Jann Huizenga

Giarratana

Sicilian Man at Fair in Ragusa Ibla, copyright Jann Huizenga

Ragusa Ibla

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You asked for this, girls. Hope you enjoyed it! For more, see Beauty Boys of the Polizia or Sicilians in Speedos.

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