La Settimana Santa, Sicily

April 6, 2012

Happy Easter!

Candles during Holy Week in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Candles outside a church during Holy Week

Read about an Easter morning celebration in Southeast Sicily here.

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Ode to the Orange

March 29, 2012

‘Tis the season of la zagara, orange blossoms on the breeze.

Is there a sweeter scent in all Creation?

Orange Tree in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Orange.

Aranciu. (Sicilian)

Arancia. (Italian)

Naranja. (Spanish)

Naranča. (Croatian)

Orange. (French)

Oranġjo. (Maltese)

Oranĝo. (Esperanto)

Overripe oranges hang heavy on the trees; they roll around in the street ripe, juicy, crimson.

Oranges Roll on the Ground in Sicily, copyright Jann  Huizenga

Oranges for Sale in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Oranges for sale in Catania, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

You want fresh-squeezed OJ? Ask for a spremuta, pronounced spray-moo-tah. Nothing can compare.

Oranges for spremuta in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Try not thinking of peeling an orange. Try not imagining the juice running down your fingers, the soft inner part of the peel. The smell. Try and you can’t…

Doug Coupeland

Oranges for Sale in Sicily, copyright Jann HuizengaClick to subscribe to BaroqueSicily.

 

 

I Heart Mario

March 24, 2012

“Do you speak English?” a man asks. We’re waiting in line at a fishmonger’s shop in Militello Val di Catania, Sicily.

“Yes!” I get happy when I can speak my native language.

“I am Mario. I grew up here, but lived and worked in Brooklyn for so many years.”

I stare at his gorgeous pearly teeth. They make him look so American, setting him apart from all the other old-timers.

Sicilian-American Man in Beret, copyright Jann Huizenga

“Look!” Mario suddenly yanks at his sweater, pulling it down to expose a scar that divides his chest into east and west.

Sicilian-American Man, copyright Jann  Huizenga

“Bypass surgery. My doctor told me to get away from the stress of American life. So here I am. I feel wonderful!” He throws up his hands in victory.

Sicilian-American Man in Southeast Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Do you see why Sicily has hooked me? This is normal behavior, the way that complete strangers interact with you in a fishmonger’s shop in a town you’ve never set foot in before.

People are connected. They are where they are, not in some virtual world, not plugged into ipods or emailing and texting while they wait for their fish. They’re talking and laughing with each other.

Un bacione (a big kiss) to you, Mario. XXXXX

And to you.  XXXXXX

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Ricotta Mousse with Honey, Direct from Sicily

March 16, 2012

Ricotta is the ultimate comfort food for Sicilians— pillow-soft and creamy, not at all like the rubbery goo at Albertsons. For this recipe, buy it from your local Italian grocer or an upscale market like Whole Foods or make it yourself (not that hard!).

Ingredients for Ricotta Mousse (serves 6):

*9 oz ricotta

*1/2 cup Sicilian Moscato (you can cheat with a California Moscato from Trader Joe’s)

*2 T sugar

*3 oz pistachios, walnuts, almonds, and pine nuts (2 kinds of nuts will suffice), coarsely chopped

*5-6 T eucalyptus honey (or substitute any other nice honey)

*candied orange peel, slice thinly (optional)

*mint sprigs (optional)

Making Ricotta Mousse in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Ready?

Whip the ricotta with the sugar and Moscato. Force the mixture through a sieve to get a velvety consistency. Sprinkle a bit of the nut mixture into 6 Martini or wine glasses. Top with the mousse and a final sprinkle of nuts. Garnish each glass with a dollop of honey, and if you are using them, candied orange and sprig of mint.

Making Ricotta Mousse in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Buon appetito!

Making Ricotta Mousse in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

This recipe is adapted from Taste and Tradition, Vol 2 by Roberta Corradin and Paula Rancati. It comes from Chef Angelo Treno of Al Fogher restaurant. TOURIST ALERT! Al Fogher is the place to eat after visiting the Roman mosaics in Piazza Armerina.

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On the Skids in Sicily

March 9, 2012

Near the end of my house renovation in Sicily, I was so broke that I begged chairs that friends and acquaintances were tossing out and shopped the Modica flea market (the last Sunday morning of every month on Corso Umberto I) for doorknobs, lamps, and dishes. Even my garbage men knew to sift through their trash for the American lady.

I furnished the salone last. Its centerpiece is a skid. As in Skid Row.

Shamelessly scavenged from la strada.

(Brutta figura, Sicilians would say.)

I lugged it down to Giuseppe, my neighborhood carpenter, and asked him to give it a real good sanding. He did, and it shines.

Then I threw down a couple o’ cushions, filled up a bowl with oranges, added two found objects (Grim Reaper scythes), a pile of books, et voilà.

A bona-fide living room.


At night I light swarms of candles, and the skid looks like a million bucks.

Do you decorate with found objects?

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Read more about my life on a shoestring in Sicily here.

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Giuseppe

Giuseppe, a fine Sicilian carpenter

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