How ‘Bout Sciabbo for Christmas?

December 22, 2011

So you’re wringing your hands trying to figure out what in blazes to cook for Christmas Eve?

You can unwring them now: sciabbò is the answer.

These are Sicilian Christmas noodles: a wonderfully easy dish that drew raves (I kid you not) from my three luncheon guests today. The recipe comes from Pomp and Sustenance by Mary Taylor Simeti. Mary is the absolute authority on Sicilian cuisine and its history, and I’m thrilled she’s given me permission to share it with you.

Take a look at some of the ingredients:

Some of the ingredients for sciabbo, Sicilian Christmas noodles, copyright Jann Huizenga

Yes! Cocoa and cinnamon and red wine go into sciabbo.

The complete list of ingredients:

1 medium onion

1/4 cup olive oil

3/4 pound pork meat, diced small (I used ground pork)

2 T tomato extract or 3 T tomato paste

1/2 cup red wine

2 cups plain tomato sauce (I used a good store-bought sauce)

2 cups water

salt

1/2 t ground cinnamon

1 T sugar

1 T unsweetened cocoa

1.5 pounds lasagna ricce (I used pappardelle)

Instructions:

Sauté the onion in the oil until soft. Add the pork and cook, stirring, until browned. Add the tomato extract and the  wine, stirring to dissolve the extract completely.

Cooking Sciabbo, Sicilian Christmas Noodles, copyright Jann Huizenga

Add the tomato sauce and the water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer for about 40 minutes until the meat is tender and the sauce is thick.

Sciabbo, Sicilian Christmas Noodles, copyright Jann Huizenga

Correct the salt (if the extract is salty, it may not be necessary to add more). Stir in the cinnamon, sugar, and cocoa.

Cook the pasta in abundant salted water until it is al dente, drain well, and toss with the sauce. You may wish to serve grated cheese on the side, although I think sciabbo is better without it.

Sciabbo, Christmas Noodles, copyright Jann Huizenga

Merry Christmas!

***

Some Sicilian-Americans still cook seven fishes for Christmas Eve, but Mary Taylor Simeti emailed me that this tradition pretty much died out in Sicily itself after World War II. She has written other wonderful books too, including Sicilian Food: Recipes from an Abundant Isle and a memoir, On Persephone’s Island.

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Red for Saints, Santas & Sinners

December 17, 2011

Bright red, a rosso the color of Rudolph’s nose, is the leitmotif of the season here in Southeast Sicily.

Political street theater in Catania, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Political street theater in Catania on December 16, 2011

Political street theater in Catania, copyright Jann Huizenga

Ms. Santa was handing out "gifts" of scrolled paper that read "Merry Christmas. Monti's government is gifting you a cut in your pension." (A better kind of protest than throwing molotov cocktails, as in Greece, don't you think?)

Festival of Santa Lucia, Siracusa, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Powdered wig, rider and horse at Siracusa's Festival of Santa Lucia, December 13

Santa Lucia, martyred patron saint of Siracusa, copyright Jann Huizenga

Santa Lucia, martyred patron saint of Siracusa, December 13

Band Members at the Feast of the Immaculate Conception in Scicli, Sicily, Dec 8, 2011

The band at the Feast of the Immaculate Conception in Scicli, December 8

Sicilian Man in Red Tie, Scicli, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Onlooker at Feast of the Immaculate Conception in Scicli, December 8

Altar Boy at Feast of the Immaculate Conception in Ragusa Ibla, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Altar boy at Feast of the Immaculate Conception in Ragusa Ibla, December 7

Sicilian Woman in Red Christmas Shawl, copyright Jann Huizenga

Woman going to mass in Modica

Women's Red-Soled Shoes in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Mass-going woman's shoes

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To learn more about Monti’s austerity package for Italy, click here.

To learn more about Santa Lucia, click here.

 

Sicily: Far from the Madding Crowd

December 12, 2011

It’s nice to be away from forced Yuletide cheer, piped-in Jingle Bell Rock, wild mobs in big-box stores, Santas tolling bells in your face, parking lot chaos.

Call me Scrooge if you will.

But a low-key Christmas is a welcome change. Sicilians in villages get festive by hand-painting Santa scenes on shop windows.

Painting Santa in Sicily, copyright Jann HuizengaOr by walking through darkness with light.

Candle-light procession at Christmas time in Sicily, copyright Jann HuizengaOr by hanging a few stars.

Christmas Decorations in Southeast SIcily, copyright Jann HuizengaIsn’t that enough? (Along with some fine food and a little bubbly?)

Take it easy this holiday and don’t forget the simple things.

Buone Feste!

***

My fellow blogger from Calabria speaks eloquently about this very topic.

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The Virgin Sallies Forth

December 8, 2011

Christmas season starts here with a bang! Literally.

Firecrackers boomed loud enough to make your heart disintegrate and drums beat wildly as the Immaculate Virgin Mary sallied forth from churches all over Sicily today (Feast of the Immaculate Conception) and took her annual spin around town.

Mary came out after dark in my village, Ragusa Ibla, so I drove to Scicli where she made an appearance earlier in the day while it was still light enough to photograph.

The priest sang Ave Maria into his mike while onlookers made the sign of the cross and wiped tears from their eyes. Notes flew from tubas and trombones.

Feast of the Immaculate Conception in Scicli, Sicily, December 8, copyright Jann Huizenga

Feast of the Immaculate Conception in Scicli, Sicily, December 8, copyright Jann Huizenga

Feast of the Immaculate Conception in Scicli, Sicily on December 8, copyright Jann Huizenga

If you’re thinking of making a trip to Sicily sometime in the future, consider the Christmas season. The weather’s pretty nice and the traditions are rich. There’s spirituality in the air rather than commercialism. Check out Sicilia&Folklore for some wonderful photos of Sicilian pageants, and for a great list–in Italian–of upcoming celebrations (prossimi eventi on the right-hand side of the blog).

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Sicily, Still Haunted by World War II

December 5, 2011

Giuseppe is peering at the Gazzetta del Sud in the doorway of the circolo for war veterans in Monterosso Almo. He invites me in.

Sicilian War Veteran in Monterosso Almo, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

“Guess my age.”

The inevitable question asked by every Sicilian over the age of 70. “I don’t know, signore. Seventy?”

“Eighty-eight. I was a soldier in the Italian army in the Second World War. I was in prison in North Africa.”

I don’t ask him who imprisoned him. I think I know. George Patton during the North African campaign.

“For how long?”

“Six months.”

What do you say to someone who, almost 70 years after a war, is still haunted by it?

Sicilian War Veteran in Monterosso Almo, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Giuseppe suddenly starts talking English.

“I learn English in prison, and later in England. A commander he take me to England. Then I come back in Sicily in 1945.”

Our conversation is interrupted by a new arrival. I say goodbye, so sorry there is no time to ask the many questions on my mind.

***

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