What’s in those Hat Boxes?

December 18, 2010

My first Christmas in Sicily. Things are low-key and I’m lovin’ it. The bar has dangled a few nonchalant stars; the barista wears a red tie . The (horse) butcher has lined his doorway with a handful of twinkle-lights. Poinsettias redden the piazza.

Things at the supermercato have reached a fever pitch, though. Christmas cakes in hat boxes—piled high on skids everywhere you look—teeter alarmingly, threatening to bury you alive under mounds of butter and lard. Friends tell me Sicilians start gobbling the cakes (called panettone or pan d’oro) at the end of November. By Christmas, they’re so bloated they can’t look at a hat box.

Christmas Panettone in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Which one to get?

Christmas Pan d'Oro in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Chocolate with orange nibs? Laced with Grand Marnier? Cointreau? Nuts? Truffles? A Mister Chocolate?

Christmas Panettone in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

How about a cake with a bottle of bubbly enclosed? My head spins.

Christmas Panettone in Sicily, Copyright Jann Huizenga

I finally close my eyes and point. I pick the classic—a spongey-eggy poof studded with oranges and raisins (OK, I’m boring). Wish I were sharing this monster with you!!

Christmas Panettone in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

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In Sicily, the Eye Demands its Share

December 11, 2010

Fifty cents. What does it get you? Not much of anything in the US these days, and certainly nothing beautiful.

But here, in Sicily, look what 50 cents will buy:

Sicilian pastry, copyright Jann Huizenga

Canestrino (basket) with sweet ricotta, garnished with almond brittle and candied lemon peel

Sicilian pastry, copyright Jann Huizenga

Sfogliatina (puff pastry) with hazelnut cream and pistachio nuts

Sicilian pastry, copyright Jann Huizenga

Bigne (cream puff) with sweet cream and cantalope slice

With their opulent use of ornamentation and chiaroscuro, Sicilian pastry chefs are small-scale baroque architects.

Sicilian pastry, copyright Jann Huizenga

Cannolo with sweet ricotta cream and pistachio nuts

Sicilian pastry, copyright Jann Huizenga

Bigne (cream puff) with chocolate cream

The little pastries are less than a quarter the size of a Starbucks muffin. Why does a single one, then, fill me up, when a Starbucks muffin leaves me hungry for more?

I think it has something to do with beauty.

Anche l’occhio vuole la sua parte, say Italians, the eye also demands its share. In other words, what we eat doesn’t just have to please the belly; it has to satisfy the eye.

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Congratulations to Lynn in Florida who has won Palmento: A Sicilian Wine Odyssey in the random drawing. More book giveaways to come, so stay tuned!

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Fasten Your Seatbelt: A Ride Through Sicily

December 7, 2010

A while back I groused about driving in Sicilian hill towns—about the narrowness of  lanes and the stone walls that jump out to smack your side-view mirrors.  Could you squeeze through these streets? I asked.

Now I’m going to show you what I mean. I’m piloting; my husband’s holding the Flip out the window. Put your seat back into full upright position and store your tray table. (click here for video)

By the way, this is the “road” I drive to reach my house.

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You have till the end of tomorrow, December 8,  to enter the random drawing to win Robert Camuto’s Palmento: A Sicilian Wine Odyssey. Just post a comment on any of my blog posts. Click here for more information. I’ll name the winner in my next blogpost. Thank you all for playing!

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Wine, Women & …

December 1, 2010

….Palmento!

Palmento: A Sicilian Wine Odyssey by Robert Camutoxx

YOU CAN WIN THIS BOOK!

I knew I was going to love Robert Camuto’s Palmento: A Sicilian Wine Odyssey the moment I flipped it open. One of the dedication pages reads:

To the hope that

Sicily remains

an island

Amen! I wanted to reach through the pages and hug the author. (See my post on the dreaded Berlusconi bridge.)

But I digress. Here’s what you need to know:

:)Sicily is in the midst of a wine renaissance;

🙂Palmento–an entertaining romp through Sicily’s vineyards–will teach you all you need to know about her wines (and a lot about the new face of Sicily);

:)To be eligible to win Palmento all you have to do is add a comment on ANY of my blog posts between now and December 8, when the random drawing will take place. The winner needs to have an address either in Italy or North America. Thanks to the University of Nebraska Press for donating  this book!

If you’re a fan of Sicily or a fan of wine, you’ll enjoy Palmento. The title refers to the tall old buildings that house rustic winepresses and are scattered around the island (now illegal to use because of those pesky EU regulations.) The author tools around in a Fiat Panda, bumping into old palmenti, hobnobbing with vintners and oenologists (pronounced eenologist, I just learned), swigging vino, and tucking into luscious meals. He writes beautifully of wine, food, and the characters in the Sicilian wine business.

One of whom is Arianna Occhipinti, the young woman below in white, whom I met two summers ago in the seaside village of Porto Paolo.  (The woman in pink is Roberta Corradin, one of Italy’s top food writers.) Palemento devotes a chapter to Arianna, “a reed of a woman with dark hair that flowed to the middle of her back, black Byzantine eyes, and the intense concentrated look of a girl who has been up at night experimenting with alchemy.” She cultivates Frappato and Nero d’Avola grapes in the Southeast Sicilian town of Vittoria, in a completely organic way, never irrigating her vines, and, “is on the verge of becoming something of a winemaking star among the alternative wine set in New York and San Francisco…a young woman who chose to stay on the land of her ancestors and challenge the thinking of the contadini of her grandparents’ generation.”  Here’s a link to Arianna’s blog.

Arianna Occhipinti, Sicilian winemaker, copyright Jann Huizenga

Sicily’s vibrant new wine culture includes anti-Mafia winemakers (Libera Terra), new wines from Marsala, and, of course, the special wines of Mount Etna. Writes Camuto, “I went to Sicily in the winter of 2008 to explore and write about an emerging wine scene. What I discovered in more than a year of travels to the island was more than a fascinating, teeming wine frontier; I found something close to my own heartbeat.”

Amen, brother.

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For a quick mini-lesson about Sicily’s wine renaissance, see this article from Best of Sicily Magazine.

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Grazie grazie grazie

November 24, 2010

Buon tacchino a voi tutti! (Happy turkey to you and yours!) May you be showered with blessings! Have you counted them yet? Here are some of mine.

I’m thankful for…

A bike on a flaming-orange wall

Green Bike on an Orange Wall, copyright Jann Huizenga

A saint in tawny sandstone

Sculpture of Saint in Modica, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Beads that keep the flies at bay.

Plastic Beads to keep away flies in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

For palms that wave

Palm Tree and Cobbled Courtyard, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Arugula that bites

Sicilian Arugula, copyright Jann Huizenga

And green grinning chairs.

Chair on red wall in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

And for you!  For all the new virtual and real friends I’ve made on this blog! Have a great holiday.

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