Today’s Sicilian Surprise

December 15, 2013

Every day in Sicily brings some weird new surprise. And I mean every single day. The day before yesterday, for instance, I was approached by a man in his cups who made hound-like eyes at me and said, “Only a woman can save a lost man like me.”  Yesterday the surprise was hearing that a dastardly new tax on my house is due tomorrow. Today as I dropped a wine-bottle into the dumpster, I saw at my feet a cardboard box full of….I don’t know what. A treasure trove or pile of rubbish? (I carted it home all the same.) You be the judge.

1

Some things in the box were in twin sets, but nonetheless they emit the smell of loneliness.  Do the Grecian ladies have anything to do with Sicily’s Greek past? Who owned these oddities, and why did she ditch them?

2

Are these the most God-awful bud vases ever created, or are they handblown Murano glassware?

3In person, statuesque Cleo is nearly the size of a toilet bowl, and made of similar material. (Come and get her if you live nearby!)

4

This is my favorite of the found items, because I know it is an original Sicilian kitchen thingamajig–thin wood wrapped around a fine mesh net. But what is/was its specific use? You’d think I would know these things by now, but I have no idea if it’s an old pasta strainer, a flour sifter, a rice washer, or ???

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5

Here’s the dumpster with the box in question.

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Back to Sicilian Me

December 5, 2013

A whirlwind two weeks of work (read: hard labor) in Republika Srbija is over.

As we rolled from one misty town to the next, the slate-gray sky spewed rain, sleet and snow. There were mutterings of discontent: We’re waiting for more war, someone said. There could be revolution, another whispered. Coal dust fell from chimneys. I felt dim. Everywhere I drank cappuccino, but nowhere did it taste anything like it should have. I looked for cornetti where there were none. Only the brilliant eyes of 450 teachers kept melancholia at bay.

Today I had real coffee on my very own sun-dazed piazza. Hot rays hit my cheeks and I yanked off my scarf, then my jacket and sweater in a kind of joyful frenzy. My impish pal Salvatore sat across the table. It’s the scirocco, he said, pointing south. From Africa.

Later, sitting with my cutting board in the blue air, I snip off rosemary and bay leaves from the clay pots. I set a tomato sauce to burble away on the stove and turn up Bocelli, who belts out an old Sicilian tune, E vui durmiti ancora.

I guess you could say I’m undergoing a metamorphosis. Back to Sicilian me.

Cooking Near the Cathedral at Ragusa Ibla, copyright Jann Huizenga

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Moonrise & the Cathedral

November 19, 2013

Somewhere deep in the heart of Sicily, there’s a moment of pure peace.

Moonrise in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

 

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The Tangerine Truck

November 14, 2013

Early morning in Acireale, at the foot of Etna.  Just me and a tangerine truck on Piazza San Domenico.

Clickety clack I go over the lava stones, aiming at the orangeness.

Little Orange Truck in Acireale, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Someone appears out of nowhere.

Ciao. Is this your truck? What’s your name?

&&%uccio.

Nuccio?

Lucio!

Oh, like light (luce)?

Si, si.

I crouch and shoot. He is all lightness and charm, like 99% of Sicilians I collar. He even says I can put him on the internet.

Where did you get the cauliflower?

Ragusa. 

Really? 

I don’t tell him I’ve just come from there on a long grey-dawn highway, stars still burning in the sky, cursing all the trucks like his I had to pass on scary curves.  I buy a rosy head for €1.50 and wonder: how many more will he have to sell to recoup gasoline costs & eke out a living wage?

Man Selling Pink Cauliflower in SIcily, copyright Jann Huizenga

By the time I leave he’s already sweet-talking his second customer.

Man Selling Pink Cauliflower in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Buona fortuna, Lucio, e grazie.

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A Near-Centennarian Tells His Story, Sicily

November 9, 2013

In my last post, I mentioned my 95-year old friend Salvatore.

The first time we met, he poked his head out the window to see who was in the tiny piazza under his window. We chatted. I craned my neck up and dried pigeon poop crackled beneath my feet. He told me he was the second oldest person in the village, and I asked if I could come up.

Sicilian WWII veteran, copyright Jann Huizenga

In his kitchen, I ask about life in the village 50 years ago. But he wants to talk about the war. He remembers it like yesterday.

In 1940 I was drafted into the Italian army.  I was first stationed in Tripoli and Algeria for about 6 months. Most of the time was spent in the desert. There was sand, sand, always blowing sand. I was a driver. They gave me a special leave for 15 days to come home and get married in 1942. After Africa they sent me to Yugoslavia, in the Ljubljana area.

In June 1943 my captain told me I could go home. I traveled across the Adriatic by ship to Messina and then found a trucker to take me to Siracusa and checked into a hotel, with a plan to take the train to Ragusa the next day. At exactly midnight on July 10, 1943, the air raid sirens woke me up, and the American bombardment of the marina started. It was the start of Operation Husky. We all ran into a rifugio in the basement of the hotel and stayed there the whole night. When I went to the train station the next morning, it was not there. It had been bombed to the ground. So I walked to Floridia, where the rail line was still good. I was dying to see my wife and family. I was still dressed in my soldier uniform. An old horse-drawn cart (carretto) with a family inside approached and they agreed to take my luggage. The cart stayed on the road and I walked across a field.  I crested a hill and was swarmed by British soldiers. They pointed their guns at me and I put up my hands. They took me to a concentration camp at Cassibili, about 10 km outside of Siracusa. 

The Americans were advancing day by day and every day the British let a few of us Sicilians go home. “You will be released tomorrow,” they told me one fine day.

But on the very day of my release, a counter-order arrived: ALL SICILIAN PRISONERS ARE TO BE PUT ON A OIL TANKER AND SENT TO ENGLAND.

The men who were left in the Cassibili camp, about 150 of us, were marched into the hold of an oil tanker, along with some prisoners from other camps. How it stank of petrol down there in the hold!  Not too far out of Siracusa, the Germans bombed us and the tanker split in two. I found a lifejacket and floated in the water from about 10am till 6pm, when an American ship spotted us and sent out little lifeboats to pick us up. Of the original 220 men on the boat, only 80 or 90 survived. I was one of the lucky ones. All the rest, dead. The captain was a good man. He gave us whiskey to warm us up.

The ship took us to Algiers, and from there we had to walk 60 kilometers under the hot sun to a concentration camp called Campo Costantino. No water in the July sun in the desert, and no food. We arrived there around 7pm after having walked the whole day. Not everyone made it, though. Once in a while we heard a BOOM! Someone had fallen because he could no longer walk, and was shot.  Who shot the men? It was Indians. You know, the Brits, Americans, Indians–they were all Allies.

Of course, we were hungry when we arrived. Avevamo un fame terribile. They gave us 15 pieces of maraconi to eat, each the size of my thumbnail. Pasta vuota in brodo, basta, nothing more. We went into the kitchen. Is there more food, we asked? No. Avevamo un fame incredibile.

They made us sign papers: Sono prigioniere italiono dagli inglese. In Campo Costantino. They sent this to our families. We stayed only one night in this camp, and then we had to march back to Algiers.

Where they put us on another ship, the Queen Mary. What a beautiful boat! When we went to dinner we found proper silverware–real silver!! And cloth napkins. We’ll eat well here, we said to ourselves.

But we were always hungry. For dinner, we sat at a table of 13 men. Six on each side and me at the head of the table, since I was a sergeant. The first night, after we waited an hour, they called me into the kitchen and gave me a pan of macaroni and I divided it absolutely equally. I remember clearly: I gave each man 12 and a half tiny pieces of macaroni, no bigger than a fingernail (he shows me his pinkie). We starved on that ship. Imagine having all that fancy silverware and nothing to eat! (Salvatore smiles.)

 There was a pantry full of food, guarded by two sentinels. One night we killed them. How, you ask? Col cotello!  With a knife!  We threw them into the sea, and then went into the storeroom and gorged on cans of meat, tuna, and biscotti. 

 The next day, of course, the British were looking for their sentinels.

 C’era un silenzio totale.

 They understood we had killed them, and from then on, they gave us nothing but bread and water on that queen’s ship.

We finally arrived at Liverpool after 10 days.  There was a big table full of food. I took 2 portions, though they yelled at me. The last two years in the camp were quite good. We could go out of the camp. British women loved Sicilians. They always said, You are Sicilian? Come on, then. They called us Uomini Gallo, Rooster Men.

Sicilian WW II veteran, copyright Jann Huizenga

Salvatore says he harbors no grudges against Britain, and even has a photo of London on his kitchen wall.

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