July 19, 2011
Santina was leaning over a wall in Modica yesterday morning, snagging a branch of dewy jasmine with her cane.
 “Signora, what do you use jasmine for? ” I asked. I expected her to tell me about a dessert she was about to whip up. Sicilians love jasmine in sweets.
“I collect it fresh every day for my ancestors,” she said. “It’s the most refined aroma in the world. It makes them happy.”
She asked me in for coffee.
The espresso was strong and thick. I drizzled it into the red demitasses because, she said, her hands were too shaky.
“I never married; I served my parents until their death,” she said sweeping grains of sugar off the oilcloth. “My married friends told me I was better off single, anyway. But now I’m alone in the world. My sister died. My brother isn’t well. I live in these three rooms–the same place I was born 84 years ago–like a caged bird.” She laughed. “If I find you a man from Modica to marry, will you stay and be my friend?”
She led me into the next room–a small space with a single bed in one corner. The ancestor shrine took up the rest of the room. She put the bowlful of fresh flowers in the middle of her family.
She was still taking care of her parents. The hot room filled with a thick, sweet smell.
 But who will take care of her?
***
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July 15, 2011
I chanced upon two generations of Sicilians playing fussball in a hole-in-the-wall arcade.
Why does the older generation heave a mutual sigh at the end of the video?
July 11, 2011
Italians–those wily sorcerers–know how to prettify everything. Cocoa hearts on their coffees, flowers on their prettily painted toes.
“You have the ugliest feet I’ve ever seen,” a good friend once commented.
Since then I pretty much refuse to wear sandals in public.
So you can imagine how jealous I am of Italian feet.
The sandal style this year often has a Greek thing going on at the ankle and a sexy flower at the toes. And, damn it, your toenails better match.
 What are you wearing on your feet this summer?
***
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July 7, 2011
Watermelons are piled high wherever you look. These heavy-as-boulder ones come from nearby Pachino, a town famous for its ruby-red tomatoes.
Watermelon used to bore me, conjuring up corporate picnics, American flags, and pig-out contests.
But I like it the Sicilian way–as gelo. It’s simple and fast.
DIRECTIONS
1. Roughly cut up a 3-pound watermelon (seedless, unless you want to pick out seeds one by one as I did) and discard the rind. Puree the chunks until liquified. (I have no blender–I’m trying to live a minimalist life–so I smooshed the chunks with my fists.)
2. Whisk 2/3 cups sugar and 1/2 cup cornstarch in a non-reactive pan. Whisk in the pureed watermelon. (OPTIONAL: Add jasmine flowers.) Bring the mix to a boil over medium heat, stirring constantly. It will take only a few minutes to thicken and bubble.
3. Remove from the heat and stir in a teaspoon of vanilla. With a rubber spatula, scrape the mixture through a fine sieve into a bowl. You can leave it in the big bowl, or spoon it out into individual serving bowls, as I did. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for several hours.
4. To serve, garnish with some or all of the following: grated dark chocolate, ground cinnamon, chopped pistachios, jasmine flowers. Serve with whipped cream if you like the calories.
This recipe was adapted from Saveur. Hope you enjoy it!
***
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July 3, 2011
Summer is in full swing.
The wind blows up from the Sahara.
The sun burns; the Ionian cools.
We’re sitting at a kiosk at the “Aziz” beach, 2 kilometers east of Donnalucata in Southeast Sicily.
“Three hours on the beach, the best coffee money can buy, two fresh brioches, and a turquoise view of the Mediterranean that extends to Africa,” Kim says, “All for five euro.”
Happy Fourth! Are you on the beach?
****
Directions: From Donnalucata, drive 2 kms east (following signs to Marina di Modica and Siracusa). When you see a (faded ) sign that says “Aziz” and “Pizzeria,” turn right and go all the way to the water, where you’ll see a white “kiosk.” Ask locals for help: everyone knows Aziz. Go early to get good parking: the bar opens at 9am and is peaceful until about 11:00.
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All photos and text on BaroqueSicily are Copyright of Jann Huizenga ©2009-2015, unless otherwise noted. Material may not be copied or re-published without written permission. All rights reserved.
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