Tonno con Cipolle: Lunch for One

July 8, 2010

Onions, copyright Jann HuizengaI’m trying to learn the Sicilian art of slow living, so my Sicilian self often sits down for a leisurely hot lunch at midday. Today’s was exceptional. Made by moi for moi.

But, really, all the credit goes to Giovanna Giglio, a cooking teacher in Ragusa.

Giovanna in her garden

My niece and I took classes with her in June; this is just one of her wonderful recipes. Super easy! Prep and cooking time less than 10 minutes. If you’re interested in lessons with Giovanna, contact me. She’s fun and inexpensive. Though she says she’s “just a housewife who cooks like all other Ragusan housewives,” she’ll be featured in Saveur magazine next spring baking her Easter breads.

TUNA WITH ONIONS

Ingredients (serves 4)

*fresh tuna fillets for 4 (about a 1/2-inch thick)

*olive oil

*2-4 large onions

*10-15 cherry tomatoes

*capers

*fresh oregano

*salt and pepper

1. Coat the tuna fillets lightly with flour. This will allow the fish to cook quickly and will seal in the juices. Heat olive oil in a large frying pan. Cook the tuna for a minute or two on each side until golden. Remove from pan.

2. Cut the onions in half and then cut them thinly into moon-shaped pieces (they’re pretty this way but can also be sliced any which way). Add them to the oil and juices already in the pan (add a bit more oil if needed). Fry until slightly wilted and golden.

3. Add the cherry tomatoes to the pan until they soften (you can mush them with a fork).

4. Add capers to taste. If you’re using salt-preserved capers, be sure to rinse them before adding. (I used to be caper-phobic, but now that I know to rinse these babies, I’m quite smitten.)

Rinse the capers!

5. Put the tuna back into the frying pan, add the fresh oregano, salt and pepper and let everything simmer for a few minutes so that the tuna is infused with the flavor of the other ingredients.

6. Remove everything to a serving platter. The dish is good served hot, but even better served at room temperature. (You can let the tuna sit out for a couple hours. Refrigerate if you’re going to serve it the next day.)


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Fine Fellows of Siracusa

July 3, 2010

The great thing about shooting in Sicily is that people beg to have their photo taken. Really!

Girls, this one’s for you. A look at real Sicilian men…

Fruit vendor:

Booksellers:

Fishmonger with stingray:

Drinking buddies:

Drinking Buddies in Siracusa, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Three guys debating parsley:

Three men discussing parsley in Siracusa, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Fishmonger in Siracusa, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

A fine fellow, too:

He’s the reverse side of the stingray seen above.

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Death in Sicily

June 29, 2010

Assai megghiu addivintirai si a la morti pinsirai, goes an old Sicilian saying. You’ll be a better person if you think about death.

The walls in Sicily are bulletin boards of death, so there’s ample opportunity here to think about it.

Death Notice in Sicily, Copyright Jann Huizenga

The black-bordered papers called necrologie are everywhere.  Ciao Nonno Salvatore one reads. Bye Grandpa Salvatore.

Death Notice in Sicily, Copyright Jann Huizenga

A guy with a brush and a pot of glue rides around on his motorino plastering necrologie around town.

Putting Up Death Notices in Sicily, Copyright Jann Huizenga

My Sicilian-American friend Mary, who has lived here for twenty-some years, says she was “freaked out” by the “morbid things” when she first arrived, but I find them endearing. They celebrate you all over the neighborhood for months, even years, while all we Americans get is a tiny newspaper blurb for a day.

Li morti aprinu l’occhi a li vivi, say the Sicilians.

The dead open the eyes of the living.

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A Volcano’s Late-June Gift

June 23, 2010

Peaches grown on the lavic slopes of Mount Etna! They’re called pesche tabacchiere, and love poems should be scribbled to them.

I gobble them up, consoling myself after the new bathtub leaks (again) and the painter calls to say he cannot come (again).

They’re flat, with a juicy pale-yellow flesh. The size of mini-donuts, but even sweeter. They remind you of how things must have tasted in Eden. In fact, the fruit vendor says they were the original peach. “How peaches were,” he says, “when they were born.”

I don’t know if  he has scientific evidence for this, but I am completely convinced that this is the way peaches—and everything else—tasted in Eden.

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Shuttered Sicily

June 19, 2010

Sicily’s shutters:

Defenders against the brash sun.

Mysterious louvered eyelids.

Guardians of secret lives.

Green Shutter in Ragusa Ibla, Sicily by Jann Huizenga

Shutters here are called persiane (Persians).

Sicilian Shutters on Orange Wall by Jann Huizenga

The hot ghibli winds have blown in from the Sahara, along with sand. Come mid-afternoon, you close the shutters tight and lie down in a dark room on cool sheets. Guilt-free. Everyone else is doing it, too.

Shutters and Rusty Balcony in Sicily by Jann Huizenga

Green shutters in apricot wall, Sicily, by Jann Huizenga

Later as the sun begins to drops, the village wakes and, one by one, le persiane creak open.

Sicilian Man in Window by Jann Huizenga

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