Ode to the Orange

March 29, 2012

‘Tis the season of la zagara, orange blossoms on the breeze.

Is there a sweeter scent in all Creation?

Orange Tree in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Orange.

Aranciu. (Sicilian)

Arancia. (Italian)

Naranja. (Spanish)

Naranča. (Croatian)

Orange. (French)

Oranġjo. (Maltese)

Oranĝo. (Esperanto)

Overripe oranges hang heavy on the trees; they roll around in the street ripe, juicy, crimson.

Oranges Roll on the Ground in Sicily, copyright Jann  Huizenga

Oranges for Sale in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Oranges for sale in Catania, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

You want fresh-squeezed OJ? Ask for a spremuta, pronounced spray-moo-tah. Nothing can compare.

Oranges for spremuta in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Try not thinking of peeling an orange. Try not imagining the juice running down your fingers, the soft inner part of the peel. The smell. Try and you can’t…

Doug Coupeland

Oranges for Sale in Sicily, copyright Jann HuizengaClick to subscribe to BaroqueSicily.

 

 

La Zagara, or How I Was Drugged in Sicily

January 21, 2010


Here’s how I got into trouble.

After teaching a short course in Ragusa in 2002, I’d returned year after year to Southeast Sicily to root around for a little casa. The Fates pushed back with all their might and I finally admitted defeat.

In the spring of 2007, I came to see friends one last time and close the Sicilian chapter of my life. Ciao, Sicilia.

A day before bidding the island farewell, I scaled the long staircase up from Ibla’s Piazza Duomo to see the cupola from on high. After many years cocooned in scaffolding thick as wool, it had reemerged triumphant.

San Giorgio Cathedral, Ragusa Ibla, Sicily

It looked good enough to eat, like whipped cream on a tumbler of granita. I felt a secret joy. Bells tolled, clouds slipped up from the valley. I inhaled la zagara—orange blossoms on the breeze—like a drug.

I turned. There, on an unassuming little row house with a mottled wall and weatherworn door, I saw the magic words: VENDITA.

House in Ragusa Ibla

I saw. I called. I bought. Cast myself into a new world just like that. 1-2-3.

Never imagining for a minute what was in store.

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