Dining with Sisters in Sicily

June 23, 2011

You sip prosecco, nibble sardines and langoustines and Sicilian caponata. Breezy curtains ripple and swing. It feels like you’re in a canopied bed, in One Thousand and One Nights.

But you’re out on a traffic island. In my favorite new restaurant.

Dining at Il Consiglio di Sicilia in Donnalucata, Sicily

Dining at Il Consiglio di Sicilia in Donnalucata, Sicily

Dining on this traffic island is fun! There’s not much traffic, really–just a few Fiats and scooters and kids on bikes. As the curtains billow open, ruffling your hair with warm sea air (the blue Ionian laps just down the street), you glimpse a family playing on their stoop. Children skip by with gelato. You look for a genie to fly from your bottle of wine.

Il Consiglio di Sicilia is owned and run by the four talented siblings of the Cicero family: Antonio, Gabriella, Elisa, and Chef Lucia, just 23 years old.

Lucia, the 23-year-old cook at Il Consiglio di Sicilia

Lucia, the 23-year-old cook at Il Consiglio di Sicilia

Gabriella, your server at Il Consiglio di Sicilia

Gabriella, your server at Il Consiglio di Sicilia

Try the tasting menu (called La Joia), a languid parade:  gorgeous seafood starters, primo, secondo, and desserts, each course accompanied by wine, all for €48.

Sicilian langoustines at Il Consiglio di Sicilia, Donnalucata

Sicilian langoustines at Il Consiglio di Sicilia, Donnalucata

Marinated Anchovies with Mint at Il Consiglio di Sicilia, Donnalucata, Sicily

Marinated Anchovies with Mint at Il Consiglio di Sicilia

Or order a la carte. Pastas include spaghetti con le vongoletagliolini ai ricci, and spaghetti with cuttlefish ink topped with fresh sweet ricotta (€12-15). Second courses include swordfish, baked sea bass, mackerel with herbs and tomatoes (€13-15). All from local waters. And don’t miss out on Chef Lucia’s desserts: cinnamon gelo (pudding), chocolate flan, lemon sorbet, and truly amazing cannoli.

Dining at Il Consiglio di Sicilia, Donnalucata, Sicily

Dining on the "Traffic Island" at il Consiglio di Sicilia

 

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: Donnalucata is a charming fishing village in Southeast Sicily. Il Consiglio di Sicilia is at 79 Via Casmene, next to “Palazzo Rosso” (a Montalbano location)–just ask anyone for directions. Open every summer evening for dinner. They will also do lunch for group so 6 or more when you reserve a day in advance. Tel. 0932.938062 or 340.9448923. Email: info@ilconsigliodisicilia.it

 

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A Man and his Bike

June 11, 2011

Early evening.

Vittoria, Sicily.

A man pedals by.

Sad.

Wistful.

Why?

 

Sicilian Man on Bike in Vittoria, copyright Jann Huizenga
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Madonna-Warrior from the Skies

May 30, 2011

Like a bolt from the blue, the Madonna storms out of the skies on a mighty white stallion, sword at hand, slashing and slaying an army of Saracens.

Not  your version of the Madonna?

Well, this is Sicily, where everything’s a little different.

The year is 1091. The place is Scicli, near Sicily’s southern coast.

Madonna delle Milizie festa, Scicli, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Madonna delle Milizie

The Normans ruled Sicily at that time. Norman knights were battling Saracens and getting creamed. The Norman leader, Roger de Hauteville, prayed to the Madonna for help, and–miracle of miracles–she swooped down to save the day.

Almost a thousand years later, la Madonna delle Milizie is still revered and celebrated in this stony little baroque town. The entire 1091 event is re-enacted each year in late May.

Normans (actors) in Scicli Festival Madonna delle Milizie

The Normans

Saracens at the festival of Madonna delle Milizie in Scicli, Sicily

The Saracens

What do the locals eat to celebrate the 1091 event?

Turkish heads.

That’s right. They feast on testa di turco, a large cream puff in the shape of a turban. Never mind that the Turks came nowhere near Sicily until the 16th century.

***

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Paradise Found in Sicily

May 7, 2011

Birra.

Getting a Beer in Comiso, copyright Jann Huizenga

Insalata.

Salad in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Olio di Sicilia.

Bottle of Sicilian Olive Oil, copyright Jann HuizengaA sun-struck piazza. (This one happens to be in Comiso).

Central Piazza in Comiso, Southeast Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

I’m on my way back to Sicily.

La dolce vita.

Paradiso.

***

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Easter Morn in Modica

April 23, 2011 (first posted April 2, 2010)

Easter morn in Modica: The resurrected Christ threads his way through back alleys, seeking, seeking. The black-shrouded Virgin comes forth, searching, searching.

Black Madonna in Modica on Easter Morning, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

High noon: Bells peal. Mobs mill. Families hang from balconies. Mother and Son reunite. Her black mantle slips off to reveal a cape the color of a Sicilian sky. Wooden arms swing open. Doves fly. Statues kiss.

Easter Celebration in Modica, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

12:05: The crowd, warmed by the spectacle and the Easter sun, kisses, too. Then home they go to the family extravaganza to fatten themselves on ricotta ravioli, Easter lamb pies, sweet breads, salads, marzipan lambs, ricotta-rich cassata, and everything else you can think of.

Watching the Easter Celebration in Modica, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Buona Pasqua!

Have you seen a moving Easter tradition in Sicily or elsewhere?

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