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July 2, 2013 When you meander through shadowy lanes in summertime Sicily, just before dusk, surprise is always right around the corner. Out of nowhere a blind courtyard will appear–the kind you don’t see till you’re right in it. That’s how I met Smiley. Up he popped from his yellow seat.
Rushed at me like I was the long lost friend he hadn’t seen in 50 years.
Ho 5 anni! Si, mi piace Topolino (Mickey Mouse)!!
*** July 19, 2010 Sicilians love their mare in summer. There’s been a mass exodus from the inland baroque towns; everyone’s hit the beach. The odd thing is that when Sicilians “go on vacation,” they travel en bloc, with all their friends and neighbors. So Ragusani move 15 kilometers away to the summer village of Marina di Ragusa for July and August; Modicani move to Marina di Modica; people from Noto go to Marina di Noto—you get the picture. “Why would you want to go on holiday to a place where you don’t know anybody?” asks a Ragusan friend when I express surprise at this herd behavior. Those who can’t afford a second home in Marina pitch tents on the beach and mingle with extended families from sunup to sundown, gobbling up gelato and platefuls of pasta alla Norma. Just before the Festival of San Giovanni Battista on August 29, everyone migrates back to Ragusa, as if a mighty shepherd is herding them all back at once.
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