Sicily in Slo-Mo

February 26, 2011

It was not 8:15  when I took this photo in Palazzolo, but high noon.

Church in Palazzolo Acreide, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

It was not high noon when I took this photo in Ragusa Ibla, but 4:30.

Duomo in Ragusa Ibla, copyright Jann Huizenga

Clocks don’t work in Sicily because time doesn’t matter.

There is never a race against time, nor do islanders ever have to beat the clock.

Time here is not money (sorry, Ben Franklin).

“On time” is an alien concept, and doing absolutely nothing is never considered a waste of time.

Il Dolce Far Niente. The Sweet Doing of Nothing.

When I  have ants in my pants, islanders fix me with wide eyes and say this: Pazienza. Ogni cosa a so tempu, Everything has its time.

Yes, Sicily is teaching me to linger, to absorb, and to sloooooooow waaaaaaaaay dooooooooown.

***

And what did you linger over today? When was the last time you tried a little Dolce Far Niente?

***

Click to subscribe to BaroqueSicily.

26 comments to Sicily in Slo-Mo

  • Thomas Sottile

    Hello, In a few words as possible explain why you moved to Sicilia Stay well Tom

    • Jann

      Such a difficult assignment you’ve given me, Tom! But in a word, I’d have to say what I love best about Sicily are the Sicilians. Then there are so many other reasons–things I touch on in my blog (living in slo-mo, the food, festivals, produce peddlers, stone towns, and so on.). This is not to say that life in Sicily is perfect by any means. There’s high unemployment, tangled bureaucracies, etc etc. But still…

  • catherine Billups

    This is why I love Sicily. That and the amazing skies which you captured so well.

    • Jann

      Catherine, and of course your Caffe Sicilia in Noto. There’s a full page B&W photo of Chef Corrado Assenza in the most recent issue of Saveur (US edition)!

  • So funny, and so true! Living in Sicily has caused me to slow down a bit too!

  • Cathy

    Dolce Far Niente? Would love some please!! I used to try to have some “do nothing” time on occasion, a rare Sunday afternoon when I could, however I’d get fixed with the hairy eyeball from himself when I do, then have to listen to him start to do housework complete with long-suffering, soulful sighs… to let me know how badly my slothful ways, all 2 hours worth of them, are affecting him and his life… If its not that, I get “Mom!-ed” to death…. LOL… But I do get away with it sometimes…

  • Jann, You’d think that here in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, where no one is in a hurry and “mañana” never comes, that “the sweet doing of nothing” would be valued. Yet this small city has more going on than almost any big city (art openings, theater, music, dancing, lectures, lessons, fiestas, etc.) and I have had scant few moments of Il Dolce Far Niente since I arrived a month ago. I think I may need to visit Sicily to slow down and have a real vacation!

  • Ciao bella! I made a Moka coffee this afternoon and I am stepping away from the computer and reading…gasp…a book in the middle of the day… Laying on my bed with big fluffly pillows reading a book without purpose, except pure enjoyment. A più tardi! Meli

  • I find it priceless how in Italian there can be things like an “oretta” (a short hour) and a “mezzora abbondante” (an abundant half hour). How exactly can you describe a period of measured time (like a half hour) as being longer or shorter than any other half hour? Aren’t they supposed to all be the same? Isn’t that kind of the whole point behind the concept of telling time?

    Only in Sicily…

    • Jann

      Haley–oretta, a little hour, is a word that scares me. When Sicilians call and say that they’ll meet me someplace in an “oretta,” it can mean anywhere between one and three hours, in my experience.

  • I try to remember everyday to find something worth celebrating. Thanks for the reminder. Aren’t the skies in Italy just the most amazing?!!

  • Margo Chavez

    Hi Jann.
    I love the story a Sicilian friend told me once about agreeing to meet a friend at the piazza at 3 in the afternoon. He showed up about 9 pm and his friend was just arriving. That’s time slowing way down.

  • As a working mother the “dolce far niente” is an alien concept to me…Italy or no Italy!

  • Jann, the last time I practiced “dolce far niente” was twenty years ago. Imagine that! Once you have children, the opportunity to enjoy dolce far niente flies out the window. Perhaps I’ll be able to enjoy it once again when everyone has moved out! 🙂 Love the angle of these shots!

  • Well, I may live in Italy, but the dolce far niente is totally alien to my life as a working mother! I wish I had some time to do nothing!

  • MADELINE

    HI, I ENJOY READING ABOUT SICILY AND LOVE THE RECIPES. MY PARENTS WERE BORN THERE, AND MY HUSBAND AND I VISITED THERE SOME YEARS AGO. WE LOVED SICILY AND THE PEOPLE. I WOULD LIKE RECIPES OF SOME OF THE CAKES, TORTES, AND COOKIES THAT ARE MADE THERE. I MAKE ITALIAN COOKIES AT CHRISTMAS TIME, WHICH ARE OUR FAVORITES. MY ITALIAN COOKING IS GREAT, BUT AT TIMES I ADD MY 2 CENTS TO IT….. BLESSINGS,MADELINE FROM SUFFOLK COUNTY, LONG ISLAND NEW YORK

    • Jann

      Hi Madeline–thanks for commenting! If I can get somebody to show me how to make Sicilian sweets, I’ll pass along the recipes. Meanwhile, the March 2011 issue of Saveur (the English version) has a huge section on Sicily!!! It’s really wonderful. Page 66 has 3 dessert recipes- for cannoli, cassata (really complicated!) and fritelle.

  • A few years ago, when learning to ride a new, multi-geared bicycle, I was going so slowly that the bike tipped over sideways, landing me in a patch of bushes. That’s generally about the pace of my life here: So slow I’ve nearly fallen off! I think I just might fit very well into the Sicilian Way.

  • those blue skies are just amazing….at all times of day! slowing down is not my natural way of being either, but, I am getting better at it (and appreciating it more, too!).

  • Linda

    “And what did you linger over today? When was the last time you tried a little Dolce Far Niente?”

    Hear what you are saying! I am proud to say I have practiced this every day for going on 9 years (with the exception of a visit Stateside 5 yrs ago) .
    threw the watch away years ago.
    Are you here full time?

    • Jann

      Linda, I love that you’ve thrown your watch away! I’m working up to that, as well as more time in Sicily (now usually about about 7 months a year.)

Site Meter BlogItalia.it - La directory italiana dei blog