In Sicily, Real Men Carry Purses

August 25, 2010

Who’s that man with the sweet-smelling basil bouquet?

It’s Ciccio Sultano, local hero, 2-Michelin-star chef at Ibla’s Duomo restaurant! But wait, what’s that strappy thing hanging around his person? Could it be … a purse?

Chef Ciccio Sultano with Basil Bouquet, copyright Jann Huizenga

In Sicily, they call them manbags. La borsa, gender feminine, is Italian for “purse.” Men shied away from carrying anything girly-sounding, so they quick coined a new word, il borsello, he-bag.

They’re all the rage. Yesterday I was last in a “line” of five at the post office, and everyone had a purse. (I was the lone woman, pity I had no camera.)  It’s curious how what was once taboo has become legitimate, thanks to Italy’s virile soccer players who started the trendy trend.

You can carry a manbag for a stroll in town…

Wearing a Manbag in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

… or for a romp on the beach as fashion accessory to your Speedo.

Man Carrying Purse in Sicily, copyright Jann HuizengaMan Carrying Purse in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Pretty figo (cool), eh? What do you think they keep in there?

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Love on a Sicilian Beach

August 15, 2010

Love has no uttermost, as the stars have no number and the sea no rest.

Eleanor Farjeon

Sicilian Grandfather with Child on Beach in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Two Women on Sicilian Beach, copyright Jann HuizengaElderly Sicilian Couple Sitting in Water, copyright Jann Huizenga

Morning has broken, water-soft, love-silent.

But in a few hours a tangle of nut-brown limbs and blue umbrellas and flip flops will storm these sands. “I Wanna Be a Macho Man” will come crashing, throbbing, tumbling across the waves all the way to Malta, all the way to Africa. Happy Ferragosto to all!

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Do you have a favorite photo of a pair on the beach? Please send and I’ll post it here.

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Thank you to Lucy Christie, who sent in these photos:

Daughter, Copyright Lucy Christie

Two Chairs, Lake Huron, Ontario: Photo by Lucy Christie

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Sicilians in Speedos

August 6, 2010

Sicilian in Speedo on Beach in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

I got a little pile of emails and comments about proper beach attire for men a few blogs ago, so I decided to pursue  the topic.

“It seems weird,” said my Italian friend Roberta as we sipped iced tea with a scoop of lemon granita floating on top, “to see a guy on the beach not wearing a Speedo. What’s he trying to hide?”

Sicilian men of all shapes and ages seem perfectly at home in skimpy little Speedos, as opposed to their American counterparts, who turn up at the beach swathed in baggy shorts down to the kneecap, complete with inner lining. Why is this? If you have any insights into this cross-cultural diff, fammi sapere, lemme know!

Sicilians in Speedos 2, Copyright Jann HuizengaSicilians in Speedos 3, Copyright Jann Huizenga

Sicilian in Speedo on Sicilian Beach, copyright Jann HuizengaSicilian in Speedo on Sicilian Beach, copyright Jann Huizenga

A recent article in the Huffington Post called “Speedos are Back” shows lots of great styles on the Milan runways!

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Don Juan in Sicily

July 29, 2010

I pick up Signor Giovanni at the beach, on the golden shores of the Ionian.

Take a picture, he commands, seeing my camera.

I oblige.

He draws a tattered poem from a pocket. Per te, for you, he says, already addressing me with the familiar form. The poem has lines like this:  You’re a beautiful table, so bountiful I barely know where to begin.

I thank him and return to my caffè-shack “office.” He follows and pulls from his breast pocket a chapbook of poems.

“Mine,” he says. “I wrote them all.”

Opposite each love poem is a black and white photo of his younger self in various poses: flexing biceps on some long-ago beach, posing in a smart sailor outfit next to some long-gone naval vessel; rowing an antique wooden boat. “Look at those addominali, he says, pointing to his youthful six-pack.

I scan the poems, charmed that this man—who says he’s had a hard life farming tomatoes and only four years of school—has produced this work.

He says his poetry has opened doors, including to the nearby Club Med, where he’s met oh so many foreign women.

He writes down his phone number and asks about a husband.

C’è ne uno,” I say. There is one.

He shrugs. “Non importa.” And hands me another poem—this one called Paradise For Us.

Signor Giovanni reciting his poetry

Have you met Don Juan in Sicily or elsewhere?

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Sicilians: Pretty in Purple

July 24, 2010

Everyone’s doin’ it. Wearing viola, that is.

Someone up North in Milano must have recently decreed that the masses wear purple. Or perhaps they issued the edict last year and the news took a while to filter down to Sicily. Whatever. The color is everywhere and stepping into the piazza on a warm summer night feels like stepping into a fieldful of blooming violets.

Wearing Purple in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Wearing Purple in Sicily, Copyright Jann HuizengaWearing Purple in Sicily, Copyright Jann HuizengaWearing purple in Sicily, copyright Jann HuizengaWearing purple in Sicily, copyright Jann HuizengaWearing purple in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Are you wearing it, too?

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Here’s Lucy (below right). She’s a reader from Toronto (see her comment on this post) and wanted to be included as a Sicilian in purple. Happy to oblige!

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