Sicilians Hit the Beach

July 19, 2010

Sicilians love their mare in summer.  There’s been a mass exodus from the inland baroque towns; everyone’s hit the beach. The odd thing is that when Sicilians “go on vacation,” they travel en bloc, with all their friends and neighbors. So Ragusani move 15 kilometers away  to the summer village of  Marina di Ragusa for July and August; Modicani move to Marina di Modica; people from Noto go to Marina di Noto—you get the picture.

“Why would you want to go on holiday to a place where you don’t know anybody?” asks a Ragusan friend when I express surprise at this herd behavior.

Those who can’t afford a second home in Marina pitch tents on the beach and mingle with extended families from sunup to sundown, gobbling up gelato and platefuls of pasta alla Norma. Just before the Festival of San Giovanni Battista on August 29, everyone migrates back to Ragusa, as if a mighty shepherd is herding them all back at once.

Sicilian Couple at Beach, copyright Jann HuizengaSicilian Father and Son at Beach, copyright Jann HuizengaSicilian Life Guards at Beach, copyright Jann HuizengaSicilian Man at Beach, copyright Jann HuizengaSicilian Men at Beach, copyright Jann Huizenga

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Fine Fellows of Siracusa

July 3, 2010

The great thing about shooting in Sicily is that people beg to have their photo taken. Really!

Girls, this one’s for you. A look at real Sicilian men…

Fruit vendor:

Booksellers:

Fishmonger with stingray:

Drinking buddies:

Drinking Buddies in Siracusa, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Three guys debating parsley:

Three men discussing parsley in Siracusa, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Fishmonger in Siracusa, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

A fine fellow, too:

He’s the reverse side of the stingray seen above.

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Sicily’s Beautiful Roving Vendors

May 13, 2010

Of all the things I love about living in Sicily, at the top of my list are the venditori ambulenti, roving vendors.

Roving Vegetable Vendor in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Can you believe a produce market comes to me?

All I have to do is hang around the house in my sweats and wait for the vendor’s croaking call (Carrote! Asparagi!) to get a garden-fresh lunch. Sometimes, when I don’t appear in the street fast enough, he rings my buzzer to announce his arrival. I shuffle out in house slippers with the other Sicilian housewives.

The back of his truck overflows with floppy lettuces, cauliflower the size of your head, ripe tomatoes, wild artichokes, and just-plucked oranges—their green-leafed stems still attached as proof of freshness.

He never weighs anything. The total price is always €1.50, no matter what. Today I chose some fat fennel, wild strawberries, and a kilo of plump tomatoes. He smiled and tossed in two unexpected cucumbers “for the tomato salad.”

He shows up a few times a week, always chomping a toothpick. He flirts like crazy with all the housewives (Sicilians never outgrow this game). He shares his recipes, and I pretend to understand his rapid-fire Sicilian.

Then there’s the hawker with a megaphone who pulls up in a white van. He carries around a whole mini-market: tomato paste, biscotti, lentils, toilet paper, you name it. He saves me a trip down 100 steps to the nearest little Alis market.

I ask you: is this not a beautiful thing?

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Thanks everyone for your recent comments. A big CONGRATULATIONS to Christine Hickman for winning the random drawing on May 10 for Toni Lydecker’s Seafood alla Siciliana. Christine lives part-time in Perugia (Umbria), where she runs cooking classes. What a perfect fit for the book! Check out Christine’s website at sonomarcella.com.

Love in Sicily

May 9, 2010

Newlyweds in Ragusa Ibla, Sicily, Copyright Jann Huizenga

Love is the crowning grace of humanity, the holiest right of the soul, the golden link that binds us to duty and truth…

Francesco Petrarch (Italian poet, 1304-1374)

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Buona Festa della Mamma!!!!!

Bella Figura: A Story of Coordinated Couples

April 21, 2010

All the street is a stage in Sicily.  Those who show up for a performance had better be decked out for the part.

Living here feels like walking through a gigantic theatrical production. Flamboyance and fantasia rule.

Couples herald their coupledom with coordinated outfits. My own husband will not agree to this. (He finds it a challenge to coordinate his socks.)

Some dress-alike couples are subtle.

Others not so much.

It wouldn’t be fair to i siciliani to say their obsession with clothing springs from narcissism. Elegance shows civic altruism: you are prettifying the landscape for the delight of your fellow citizens. As the old Sicilian saying goes, Mancia a gustu tò, càusa e vesti a gustu d’àutru; Eat to please thyself, but dress to please others.

Click here to read Shoes Like Gondolas, the true tale of my failed attempt to become an Italian fashion goddess. I wrote it after my first long visit to Ragusa Ibla (Sicily) in 2002.

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