Black Fun in Sicily

September 17, 2010

“Can I take your picture?” I ask the phalanx of guys warming themselves in the sun.

“Sure,” says the baby-faced man in the foreground. “But hurry up. We’re all on our way to the cemetery.”

Ragusan Men Sitting on the Piazza, copyright Jann Huizenga

That’s Sicilians for you. Curious dark humor.

History’s to blame. Tyranny. Plague. War. Famine. Earthquake. Poverty. Excellent cadavers. Having survived all that, you’d be telling black jokes, too.

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For some more black Sicilian humor, read Camilleri (if you like mysteries), or Pirandello’s “The Oil Jar and Other Stories” (see my review here), or see the wonderful (long) Taviani Brothers’ film Kaos (Chaos), based on four of Pirandello’s short stories. The village scenes in Kaos were filmed in my town!

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Popping Out Norman

November 20, 2009

A Sicilian couple I know—both with espresso-bean eyes and hair black as night—have a young daughter, Ottavia, with yellow curls and sky-blue eyes. “She just popped out Norman,” says her mom. “We were shocked.”

According to Vincenzo Salerno in Best of Sicily Magazine, medieval Normans—mainly knights and soldiers—came to Sicily between 1061 and 1160. Most married Sicilian women.

A thousand years later their blue-eyed genes still pop out like Cracker Jack surprises in the Sicilian population.

I spotted this signore in a hole-in-the-wall barbershop in Ibla. When his Norman eyes met mine, I half-swooned and half-expected to see a suit of armor hanging from the coat rack behind him.

Norman

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